[pct-l] On Ice Axe Leashes & Trail Workers

[dsaufley at sprynet.com (dsaufley)]

Thank you for this excellent description, Campy!  I noticed the same odd
twist to the wrist strap loop on my trekking poles.  

Hey, we just hosted a great group of SCA (Student Conservation Association)
trail workers, and it made me think of you.  They are funded through grants
and were present at the behest of Tim Stone over at NFS.  Their last gig was
up in Klamath. There were nine of them, and they did two nine day stints
doing repair and maintenance from Vasquez Rocks to the top of the Sierra
Pelona ridge.  They filled in the deep ruts that have been caused by the
combination of motorcycles, fire, and heavy rains, and put in earthen water
bars to prevent future erosion.  I can't say enough about what they did to
help the heavily abused trail in this area.  They rock.   

L-Rod 

-----Original Message-----
From: pct-l-bounces@mailman.backcountry.net
[mailto:pct-l-bounces@mailman.backcountry.net] On Behalf Of Campy
Sent: Saturday, December 17, 2005 11:17 AM
To: pct-l@mailman.backcountry.net; Doodad PCT
Cc: Campy
Subject: [pct-l] On Ice Axe Leashes

"Doodad PCT" wrote:

> This smaller leash is sized so that the smaller loop fits over the top 
> of
> the ice axe head and tightly locks around my uphill wrist.

It's good to read a correct and definitive statement regarding correct 
wrist strap placement - over the head, and not dangling down the near 
side of the axe.

Many years ago in teaching I learned that the novice would see the 
wrist strap and unconsciously decide to put the hand up through the 
strap on the near side and then raise it to grip the ice axe head. 
WRONG!

As a related aside, European ice axes sold with the wrist strap 
attached have a curious twist in its webbing, as if the (usually sewn) 
loop was twisted accidentally before the ends were sewn together. This 
twist would be noticeable when the leash was wrongly used.

The CORRECT placement of the wrist strap is as follows (detailing step 
by step). With the head of the axe up and with its adz pointed in the 
direction of the thumb, pull the strap up with its slider on the far 
(uphill) side of the axe head, away from the climber's body. Pull the 
loop up high and put the hand through the loop from the near side. The 
loop is now on top of the wrist. Lower the hand so the palm grips the 
ice axe head. Note that the strap is now UNDER the palm and OVER the 
ice axe head. For most people, the loop is large enough to make a nice, 
comfortable attachment to the wrist.

Notice now also that the webbing twist is gone! both sides of the loop 
now lie flatly over the axe head and secure the hand to the axe while 
wrapping nicely around the climber's wrist.

The reason this wrist strap placement is so important is because if an 
accident occurs with frostbitten or cold hands, the ice axe hand does 
not need to actually grip the axe head for a successful self arrest. 
Check it out, the fingers can be left open and while pulling downward, 
the head of the axe will remain firmly attached to the wrist, and there 
is little chance of a dangling and "flailing" ice axe in the event the 
grip is lost.

Some new American ice axes in the 1970s appeared on the market with the 
obligatory wrist strap, but the manufacturer had forgotten or never 
knew the purpose of the 180-deg twist in the wrist strap loop, and 
failed to put it there. (It was a California company with an REI 
account, and not a Colorado company!)

Regards,
Campy, PCTA Project Leader

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