[pct-l] Gear for late spring snow?

[Gary Schenk]

On 11/12/2010 7:37 AM, CHUCK CHELIN wrote:
> Good morning, all,
> I don’t believe an ice axe is a must.  Thousands of hikers have successfully
> thru or section-hiked the PCT without an ice axe and I believe that will
> continue.  I generally believe that without having practiced arrest methods
> an ice axe is less valuable to carry, however I also don’t believe that an
> “untrained” hiker is doomed or should avoid the PCT.
> http://www.trailjournals.com/entry.cfm?id=264671

An interesting and well written article, Chuck.

"The defining function of an ice axe, and probably the least-used, is as 
a means to self-arrest if one slides out of control down a slick, 
snowpack slope."

IMO, self-belay is the most important function of the axe. Once you 
start falling, self-arrest only has a 50-50 chance of working according 
to the experts.

"That is an important function but, as it’s been said by probably every 
expert: An axe isn’t worth carrying if one doesn’t know how to use it 
and hasn’t practiced doing so."

Very true, and cannot be emphasized enough!

"If the axe is in the uphill hand as described, the trekking pole in the 
downhill hand is substantially out of work – it can’t easily reach the 
down slope and it’s awkward to use on the upslope.

If you are using this method, it sounds like you are throwing yourself 
out of balance, not good on a steep snow slope. Climbing in balance is a 
skill more important than the axe itself.

"Next, the spike of an ice axe does not have a snow-basket so it is very 
likely to penetrate too deeply into the snowpack making stability less 
certain. "

I want my axe shaft as deep in the snow as I can get it. This is self-belay.

"Wouldn’t it be better to have a basket-equipped trekking pole in the 
uphill hand to enhance balance, while the downhill hand grasps the shaft 
of the ice axe – pick pointed down --across the chest in the perfect 
position to quickly begin an arrest?"

Not at all. You want to climb snow slopes "in balance." The position of 
balance is with the uphill foot forward. The axe is carried in the 
uphill hand and placed as deeply into the snow as possible as 
self-belay. The downhill foot is moved up, then the uphill foot is moved 
up. The axe is only moved once you've returned to the position of balance.

As you point out, thousands have thru-hiked without an axe. The only 
point of carrying one would be to give you a little more flexibility in 
ascending the big Sierra passes. With an axe and some sort of traction 
device (and the knowledge of how to use them), you can cross the big 
passes on your schedule, not theirs.

As always, HYOH, YMMV.

Gary