[pct-l] RE: On Ice Axe Leashes

[doodad.pct at hotmail.com (Doodad PCT)]

My ice axe leash is one-of-a-kind, or rather a two-of-a-kind system.  It?s a 
bit difficult to describe, but I?ll do my best.

First:  I made some modifications to my ice axe:
My axe is a Black Diamond Raven.  To get acquainted with its parts, see an 
image of the fancier Raven with Grip model:
http://www.bdel.com/gear/raven_grip.php

If my raven came with a leash (I don?t remember) I discarded it.  You?ll see 
why soon.  I covered most of the black shaft with shrink-wrap ? the kind 
used in electrical applications ? for better thermal insulation and  much 
better grip.  I covered the gripped part of the head with a Grivel 
Cappuccino rubber cover for the same reasons.  The Cappuccino leaves the 
pick and the adze clear and ready for action.  For carrying on the backpack, 
I cover the pick and adze with a one-piece rubber protector and a Grivel 
Bigfoot protects the spike.  If this terminology is confusing, check out:
http://www.hightrek.co.uk/climbing/how2/axe1.htm

Second:  I  used knot technology to fashion two separate leashes, both made 
from soft-lay 17 mm tubular nylon sling:

The smaller leash loops through the hole at the top of the shaft and is tied 
with a simple water knot.  See:
http://www.scoutingresources.org.uk/downloads/knots_waterknot.pdf

This smaller leash is sized so that the smaller loop fits over the top of 
the ice axe head and tightly locks around my uphill wrist.  Typical 
commercial versions offer far too much play.

The longer loop functions like the more elaborate one shown in the Raven 
with Grip image, but it is much more secure.  It goes through the same ice 
axe hole and uses a knot which I call the Hunter Adjustable Loop.  Many 
years ago I published an article in Off Belay magazine about a class of 
knots which I developed called adjustable loops.  Adjustable loops consist 
of tying two ends of a rope together with any bend, but instead of just 
using the bend in a normal fashion, the loop is nestled next to the knot as 
it is being tied around it.  After the knot is formed, that portion of the 
loop which is encased inside the knot can be adjusted, but if force is 
applied to the two loops thus formed, the adjustment will not change.  I 
developed adjustable loops principally for use with prussik slings which can 
be formed snugly around cramponed boots, but which don?t noose tighter when 
the full body weight is applied during crevasse self-rescue.  When I 
published the Off Belay article, I had never heard of the Hunter?s Bend, so 
I used the Adjustable Fisherman?s Loop and the Adjustable Grapevine Loop as 
illustrations.  The first is easier to adjust and the second is more secure. 
  To learn the Hunter?s Bend, see:
http://www.scoutingresources.org.uk/downloads/knots_huntersbend.pdf
or
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Image:Hunters_Bend_HowTo.jpg

The longer leash is the same length as the one illustrated with the Raven 
with Grip image.  It is adjusted to fit around my downhill wrist snugly, but 
not chokingly tight.  Both leashes should have liberal knot tails for 
security.

Properly adjusted and applied, I will never lose my ice axe when I need it.

Anybody on the list who would like to see first-hand the Adjustable Hunter 
Bend and the Adjustable Grapevine Bend, send a stamped, self-addressed 
envelope to:

Doodad
P.O. Box 3002
Bellingham, WA  98227-3002
and I?ll send you models of each, tied together.  On the back of the 
envelope, please write: ADJUSTABLE LOOPS

Doodad
PCT NOBO 2006

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