[pct-l] California Section P condition report

[david at emeraldlake.com (David Plotnikoff)]

Greetings from a long-time list lurker and section hiker.

These notes are from a five-day, four-night 100-mile northbound walk on
section P of the Pacific Crest Trail from Castle Crags at I-5 (northbound
mile 1500.5) to Etna Summit (mile 1600.2) on the week of 7/05/04. The
conditions I encountered, just after the final melt-off, were prime --
plenty of water in most seasonal flows, lush (sometimes boggy) meadows, no
trail impediments or complications.

Highs were between 80 and 85 on most of the PCT (and much hotter down in
the lower stretches of the Sacramento River valley near Castella).
Nighttime lows never dipped below 50. Noted a few clouds blowing over the
ridges in the afternoons, but none of the thunderstorms that have hit the
region lately.

Snow was restricted to north-facing slopes at +7000 feet and not a problem
for a hiker with just poles and trail runners. (Thanks to brother Deems for
advance trail intelligence.) The only serious "I could be in deep trouble
here" traverse in 100 miles was at the top of the final descent into Etna
Summit -- 60 yards of near-vertical slope with no easy or obvious
walk-around. The slope is do-able without crampons and ice ax, but it's a
somewhat nervy traverse. The runout is 50 feet, which means someone who
slipped and couldn't self-arrest could potentially achieve terminal
velocity meeting the trees and rocks below. My approach: Northbounders
could go across the slope for the first half -- 30 yards or so -- and then
move straight up the slope rather than across. Southbounders: Stay on the
relatively flat top of the bank as long as you can before dropping down.
That 60 yards was the *only* snow impediment in 100 trail miles that could
be a big problem. These conditions may not be around for long, considering
the warm weather. Other snow patches -- on the headwall above Big Marshy
Lake north to around Eagle Peak -- were a non-issue and will probably
vanish in a couple weeks.

While thru-hikers may take one look at the relatively flat elevation
profile of section P and see four lightning-fast 25-mile days, section
hikers may wish to look at P as five 20-mile days. Note that it is possible
to dayhike and/or slackpack the entirety of Section P. It breaks up into
neat 20-mile segments, with the exception of the problematic first day up
out of Castle Crags, where you're looking at 23 miles to Upper Seven Lake
or roughly 26 to the Gumboot trailhead area. The Gumboot road (aka Forest
Road 26) and Forest Road 17 are both high-standard forest byways easily
accessible to passenger cars without 4-wheel-drive. Scott Mountain Summit,
Carter Meadows Summit and Etna Summit are all crossed by bona fide
highways, albeit the latter two are lightly traveled. From Etna Summit, the
conventional wisdom is it may take a while to see an eastbound car, but the
majority of those cars are likely to stop for hikers.

Water: Northbound hikers should leave the Sacramento River or the
campground at Castle Crags loaded for a dry day as far as the outlet creek
to Scott Lake or Upper Seven Lake -- after 23 miles of hot climbing. Both
of these water sources are cross-country off-trail. Consult the guidebook.
Two key water sources listed in the PCT data book or guidebook  -- the two
crossings of North Fork Castle Creek -- were already profoundly dry the
first week in July, as were Ugly Creek and Bustarse Creek. Popcorn Spring
was running at a trickle.

Count on Sulphur Creek -- just six miles north from I-5 -- as the last
on-trail water through the "gully with permanent spring" at mile 1537.8,
about 30 miles later. Consider Upper Seven Lake and Porcupine Lake as the
only truly accessible and reliable water sources, both off the trail, in
this challenging section.

Water north of Carter Meadows Summit can be a concern. Load up at the South
Fork Scott River just prior to Carter Meadows Summit and plan on going dry
for exactly eight miles to Bingham Lake's boulder-strewn outlet. The
creeklet just north of the jeep road at 41.15.246 x 122.57.177 is a
trickle, not a bankable water source. The Bingham Lake outlet is at
41.16.528 x 122.57.281. Here it's better to clamber up the boulders to get
water than to drop below the trail. After this point, there are frequent
creeks and creeklets through to Etna Summit. Paynes Lake outlet creek is
roaring.

Trail conditions, overall, are very good. One short three-mile stretch of
cliff trail climbing out of the Russian Creek canyon (41.17.608 x
122.57.981  to the saddle at 41.18.630 x 122.58.805) needs minor brushing.
No noted blowdowns, washouts or other impediments for the entire 100-mile
section. Signage is good at all major intersections but minimal in between.
No blazes or PCT badges between intersections. Noted only one potentially
confusing intersection  (41.19.871 x 122. 37.845) where the Little Trinity,
Sisson-Callahan and PCT meet. It has been described often as two junctions
about 20 yards apart. What I encountered was a single conventional "Y"
intersection, with the PCT branching left (west/southwest) down the long
open canyon and the Sisson-Callahan trail branching right  over the crest
saddle. I could never actually find the Little Trinity trail. If in doubt,
the PCT mile marker on the left should be your definitive visual cue.
Southbounders, remember that Sisson-Callahan and the PCT are one and the
same through here to the saddle above Bull Lake. The three miles
approaching Scott Mountain Summit are an unholy terror -- a true
abomination that will have both north- and south-bounders cursing heartily.
This is not a trail maintainance issue as much as a *trail rebuild* isssue.


SPECIAL NOTE FOR USERS OF NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC TOPO MAPS: A few miles north
of the aforementioned fork of the Sisson-Callahan trail and the PCT (this
can be confusing because northbounders are actually heading *south* by the
compass) , note there may be a discrepancy between the TOPO! map and PCT
trace and the actual trail between the saddle at 41.18.519 x 122.38.773 and
the new clearcut that now houses the four-way junction of the PCT and the
Masterson Meadow trail. The true trail tread swings wide south and east of
the peak 6957 to hit a minor rock promontory at 41.17.426 x 122.38.748. It
is shown clearly on the Forest Service Klamath map. The trace shows the
trail going in a more direct route just west of the crest. (This is the
first time in more than 1000 trail miles that I've noted what might be a
discrepancy in the PCT trace.) The PCT through the clearcut is very well
marked and easy to follow.

The Backcountry Horseman were working at the southern entrance of the
Russian Wilderness, on the cliff sections near Jackson and Bingham lakes.
These trail maintainance volunteers are the unsung heroes who are doing the
work of the angels -- the hard, dirty and dangerous  work that keeps
travelers safe.  To be able to thank them face to face was an honor.

On the creature comforts front: Poison oak, black flies and rattlers were
all much in evidence in the lower elevations of Castle Crags. Bear activity
noted between Scott Mountain Summit and Carter Meadows, but not anywhere
near the magnitude of the previous section O to the east. Surprisingly few
mosquitos, except at some of the lower lakes. Noted only deer and bobcat
tracks at the water places.

Human element: Saw six southbounders in five days, no northbounders,
although the grapevine said three nobo thrus were ahead of me and moving
blazing fast to Seiad. One of the three was said to be, and I quote: "An
old guy with a Kelty external frame pack."

The Class of '77 lives -- or was just a wannabe trying to impersonate the
immortals?

If anyone has specific questions, e-mail me off-list at david@emeraldlake.com

Respectfully submitted,

DP