[pct-l] Mt. Shasta

[Slyatpct at aol.com (Slyatpct@aol.com)]

In a message dated 3/7/2004 9:12:32 PM Eastern Standard Time, 
judsonb@internetcds.com writes:

> Personally, having climbed Shasta in July, I would advise thru-hikers
> against it unless they are experienced at mountaineering in the Cascades. It
> is a much greater commitment than Whitney.
> 


Is that so?   

I had absolutely no mountaineering experience anywhere never mind the 
Cascades before I climbed Shasta, but used a little common sense, some of it learned 
during the climb.  

A couple things to consider, much like traversing the High Sierras on the PCT 
without crampons, we didn't start out before sunrise as the main group did, 
but waited until later in the morning when the snow softened up before starting 
out.  

If you do take crampons make sure to take them off before a sitting glissade 
as I witnessed a couple doing.

If you don't take a helmet try not to climb directly behind another, but 
spread out to either side and watch for falling rock.

Take an ice ax as I mentioned in my previous post.

That said, as with hiking the trail itself, take any wisdom and advice from 
this list with a grain of salt and act responsibly.  I'm quite thrilled I took 
the time to climb the mountain when the opportunity presented itself, 
regardless of if the "best climbing was over".

YMMV,

Sly




> 
> To begin with, by the time thru-hikers get there, the best climbing is over.
> You want the mountain to be covered in snow- like May or June. Not only is
> it easier than climbing endless piles of loose scree, but snowcover keeps
> down the amount of rockfall, which in Avalanche Gulch can be prodigious. By
> July, much of your travel will be on loose scree, sometimes dangerously so.
> In addition, you will be much more prone to rockfall from the rotten cliffs
> above the route.
> 
> Also, I disagree with some other people who have answer this question,
> saying that you need no special gear to climb this mountain. Can you
> physically reach the summit w/o it? Most likely. Would I ever climb this
> mountain w/o a helmet and an ice axe, and most likely crampons? HELL no. In
> order to summit, you'll be ascending steep snow past Helen Lake early in the
> day, when it is still hard as a rock. By July, it has consolidated to the
> point that whatever is left is quite hard indeed. Without an ice axe, if you
> fell on parts of this route, you'd be completely screwed.
> 
> There are not many summits in the Cascades which can be counted as a
> "walk-ups"- South Sister being one close to the trail. I would argue that
> Shasta, even though it might be possible to do it, should not be placed in
> this category. IMHO.
> 
> Judson
> Ashland