[pct-l] SNOW
Gary Schenk
gary_schenk at yahoo.com
Wed Mar 8 13:19:56 CST 2017
Ned,
Interesting. I believe that ability to self-belay is more important that self-arrest. It's better to not fall than to try to self-arrest. Self-arrest is far from being a guaranteed thing. Experts say it works maybe 50% of the time.
Of course, Forester Pass is not exactly the Himalayas.
Gary
--------------------------------------------
On Wed, 3/8/17, ned at mountaineducation.org <ned at mountaineducation.org> wrote:
Subject: RE: [pct-l] SNOW
To: "'Gary Schenk'" <gary_schenk at yahoo.com>, pct-l at backcountry.net
Date: Wednesday, March 8, 2017, 11:10 AM
Self-arrest poles do not
have the lateral strength to be used for
self-belay, even if you took off the snow
basket in the middle of a
traverse.
I find that using my two poles
to maintain my balance, Whippet in the
downhill hand as opposed to an ice axe in the
uphill hand, while kicking
footholds with
crampons on the moderate slopes snow-hikers face (even
Forester and Mather) is sufficient and works
well.
I've also come to
the decision that the commonly carried short axes, if
used
for self-belay on these lower-angle
slopes (15-30 degrees), cause hikers to
be
bent over too much, because the axe shaft has to be
completely plunged
into the snow to affect
the needed anchor, and they compromise their balance
in the process causing falls on these steep
slopes.
Thus, it is better
to encourage snow-hikers to stand normally and use their
poles for good balance control rather than use
an uphill axe for self-belay,
causing this
bent-over posture, and a pole to oppose gravity on the
downhill
side.
Ned Tibbits, Director
Mountain Education, Inc.
ned at mountaineducation.org
-----Original
Message-----
From: Pct-L [mailto:pct-l-bounces at backcountry.net]
On Behalf Of Gary Schenk
Sent: Tuesday,
March 7, 2017 10:42 AM
To: pct-l at backcountry.net
Subject: Re: [pct-l] SNOW
Doesn't the snow basket prevent a really
good self belay?
Gary
--------------------------------------------
On Fri, 3/3/17, ned at mountaineducation.org
<ned at mountaineducation.org>
wrote:
Self-arrest poles do
double duty for the snow hiker,
1. Prevent
slip-and-falls by
helping maintain your balance (as any pole would do),
and 2. Allow you to immediately deploy the
self-arrest pick into the snow
to stop any
sudden tumbles (if you know how).
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