[pct-l] A Random Walk Through the Herd

[Herb Stroh]

I section hiked the PCT southbound from Meeks Bay, Tahoe (about mile 1112) to Tuolumne Meadows (942) June 19-29th. The trip was in part a shakedown for a future thru of the PCT. I thought a brief report on the herd would be of interest to the list.

The PCT hikers I met in the Desolation Wilderness appeared to be those starting a week or so before kickoff, along with a few thoroughbreds from the herd. By the time I reached Kennedy Meadows Resort (Senora Pass) on June 24 it was almost all herd, and that continued until my exit at Tuolumne Meadows on 6/29.

I ran into no less that 20-30 thrus per day, and perhaps as many as 40. When discussing those numbers with hikers, most were astounded-they were aware of couple others in close proximity, but not that there were so many thurs within a day's walk of each other. One couple mentioned that they felt like they hiked most of the Sierra alone.

Generally the hikers seemed to be strong and in good spirits. The pace of the thurs and their workmanlike manner on the trail certainly betrays their many miles of travel. I didn't need to see a bandana to know who was on a mission to Canada. Hikers reported just 2 days of rain (3 after the surprise nighttime wind/rain event of 6/26) and relatively moderate desert temperatures. The current pressing concern were mosquitoes, generally heavy in the Desolation Wilderness and then again Yosemite to north of Dorothy Lake.

My perianal question to hikers "is it still fun?" was usually answered with an enthusiastic "YES." But a few were more reserved, noting the adversities and in some instances, injuries. One hiker commented that the mantra among some in the desert was "we just need to get to Kennedy South and everything will be ok." He immediately pointed out that they simply exchanged one set of challenges for another, and that the "real work" started there.

Of course you see a bit of everything hiking face first into the herd. As I was approaching Senora Pass from the north a couple was coming up, she with tassels on her hiking poles. Stepping aside I said "So, do those come with a trail name?" "Glitterbug!" she said with a smile. I can't recall where, but I came face to face with a Japanese hiker sporting a Japanese flag on a flagpole protruding from his pack. Well as a regular reader of this list, I just HAD to ask: "Yoshi?" "Yes" he said without looking up, breaking stride, or showing a lick of surprise at a stranger knowing his name. "Do you post on the PCT-L?" "Yes," he said, but this time looking up. "I really enjoy your posts". That got him to stop and smile, telling me he was Japanese and something about doing the best he can, then turned and off he went. I was dying to ask him about his menu, but it was not to be that day.

I have to comment about how incredibly welcoming and inclusive the PCT hiking community is. As I approached Ebbetts Pass early in the morning I heard someone shouting from the road below, but could not make out the words. As I got closer it came through: "Trail magic! TRAIL MAGIC!!" As soon as I emerged from the trail I was greeted by Chipmunk, who asked: "Are you hiking the PCT??" I told him I was sectioning Tahoe to Yosemite, and he responded excitedly: "Do you want breakfast? Do you like coffee? How do you want your eggs? Put some chili on those eggs? I just set up and you are my FIRST guest!"

Chipmunk has apparently come down from the Sacramento area every year for the last 4 years to run some magic at Ebbetts. He had a table, chairs, and all kinds of food that a backpacker would never have in their bag-it was heaven. He told me he had food for 50 in the van, and because there is no bear-proof way to store food near the pass, drives 45 minutes each way into town daily.

Brakeman arrived shortly after me and we chatted over our eggs and chili. Before leaving Chipmunk pressed a freshly-baked-from-scratch brownie into my hand and said: "I only ask you don't tell any north bounders about the magic. Let them be surprised!" His love of serving the trail community was irrepressible.

A second quick example: After resupplying at Kennedy Resort I walked back up to the highway to hitch to the trail. It was after 5:00 pm, and a scant 10 cars went by in over an hour. Defeated, I trudged back to Kennedy, contemplating starting out the next day and heading over Bond Pass to rejoin the PCT.

As I walked up to the store 3 hikers were hanging out in front, and urged me to sit and join them. Now, I am old enough to be everyone's dad in this story, but because I had a pack, I was just part of the gang. One hiker introduced himself as Salsa. I told them that if they were hoping to get a hitch back to the trail today to forget it, there just is not enough traffic heading up. Salsa said that the two other hikers were waiting for a buddy to pick them up to leave the trail, and were giving him a ride back. "You have room for another right?" His buddy said sure, it was a small car but we could fit.

Well when the buddy arrived he had another buddy with him. So now it is 6 guys, 4 packs, and one very small hatchback. I am thinking uh oh, I am odd man out. But the first thing said: "Everybody goes! Plenty of room in this hatchback. We will shuttle if we have to." Salsa folded himself into the hatchback, we piled packs on him and on laps of others and off we went. We were packed in so tight the only person who could see was the driver. Talking later with a woman who saw us pull up at the Senora Pass parking area, she described our arrival as follows: "You guys pulled up in this little car, every door opened and packs and bodies poured out of everywhere. It looked like a clown car!" I chuckled over that image for a couple days.

A long running thread from a couple weeks ago lamented the deteriorating courtesy and appreciation of PCT hikers. While I have no doubt that those folks are out there, my personal experience with the 2014 class suggests otherwise. All those I came into contact with were friendly and willing to stop and chat. When hikers learned this was a shakedown for a future hike, they freely and enthusiastically offered advice on gear and thru strategy. Some urged me to contact them post-hike to help with my planning. Even in little things I saw observance of good trail etiquette: those wearing ear buds generally removed them as I approached in order to exchange in pleasantries and/or a further conversations if so initiated.

For anyone contemplating a thru hike, I urge you to plan a section hike headlong into the herd. Any piece of gear that caught my eye I could ask the hiker for a review; I discussed food, resupply strategy, loneliness on the trail, anything I could think of. No one short-changed their response or acted too busy to chat. The presence of thrus on the trail was a true delight and significantly added to my hiking experience.

Happy trails class of 2014.

Herb