[pct-l] Ice axe?

ned at mountaineducation.org ned at mountaineducation.org
Mon May 20 16:38:33 CDT 2013


For the average springtime sierra Thru Hiker, JMT or PCT:  Whippet vs. Axe

- the self-arrest pole is in-hand always. Since you never know when you're 
going to slip and fall, this is the best option for protection against 
spontaneous out-of-control slides into trees or rocks below. It functions 
the same as an axe for self-arrest and works for balance control, too.
- The pole does not work for self-belay or as an uphill anchor on steep 
traverses because of its basket and less durable construction.
- It can not chop through thick ice to make footholds (though it can nibble 
a bit at it, roughing it up enough to get a bit of friction-traction!)

- the deployment of an axe requires that the user be trained and experienced 
enough with the tool to recognize axe-needing hazards ahead and stop and 
take the axe off the pack before moving forward. Most thru hikers learn this 
by trial and error (in other words, they have to learn through their 
personal falls how much traction and balance their shoes give them, how much 
their behavior leads them into danger, and under which snow conditions they 
tend to fall. Maybe then they'll slow enough to be maintain better safety 
and balance on snow).
- an axe is often too short for balance control, but once in-hand, is 
certainly the definitive tool for self-arrest, self-belay, and as a rudder 
in a seated glissade.

If I know that we're leading a group of our students into a place or on a 
route where there might be sufficient springtime, consolidated snow on-angle 
to cause a slip-and-fall, Mountain Education requires the following:
- Ice axes (for routes straight up the fall line--self-belay use)
- Whippet poles for constant use
- Kahtoola hiking crampons for predictable lateral control while traversing 
on snow or ice.

If we don't expect any high-angle stuff, the axe is left at home.

The key, here, is knowing your route! How can you plan or prepare for 
anything you know only a little about? Sure, you can read up on Journals and 
look at pictures, but going there for yourself is the best way to discover 
what the conditions are really like on the ground on the date you expect to 
be there.

Here's a silly video we put together three years ago showing what it took to 
get over Forester...

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=po7gWQzrrGw



Ned Tibbits, Director
Mountain Education
www.mountaineducation.org
-----Original Message----- 
From: Dan Welch
Sent: Monday, May 20, 2013 9:43 AM
To: 'Ned Tibbits' ; 'Aaron Nicholson' ; 'pct-l'
Subject: RE: [pct-l] Ice axe?

Hi Ned,

Can you tell me your thoughts on why the Whippet is "better" than a Corsa
Ice Axe?  The Corsa looks more rugged and more appropriate for self arrest -
and lighter too. I would have planned to use the Corsa as a "hiking pole
support" on slick or icy slopes, so it would already be in hand. I
understand the dangers of "self evisceration," but is it any less of an
issue with the Whippet?

Thanks for the benefit of your experience!
Timberline

-----Original Message-----
From: pct-l-bounces at backcountry.net [mailto:pct-l-bounces at backcountry.net]
On Behalf Of Ned Tibbits
Sent: Monday, May 20, 2013 11:37 AM
To: Aaron Nicholson; pct-l
Subject: Re: [pct-l] Ice axe?

Like most year's thawing snowpack, this year's just has a higher snowline.
The word thus far is placing it at about 10,500 or 11,000. This means that
you'll have solid snow from there on up and over every pass or ridge you
come across.

With the exception of Forester's ice chute, the skills needed are
self-arrest, traction control, and balance on snow. If you don't know how to
use an axe, it would be a waste of effort to carry and money to buy.
However, as we encouraged at the Kickoff, a self-arrest pole like the Black
Diamond "Whippet"  (
http://www.blackdiamondequipment.com/en-us/shop/ski/ski-poles/whippet-self-a
rrest-ski-pole
) is always in-hand and ready to save your butt should you fall and slide
(but you've got to know how to self-arrest!). It also works great for
balance control, as a pole. (Don't sweat the weight of the thing...you'll
get used to it).

Remember, start early in the morning to capitalize on the harder snow
surfaces made by the night's cold temperatures (should you still have
freezes). Once the snow becomes so soft that you start postholing, get off
of it. Posting can cause serious injuries. Plan your day's progress
accordingly and you'll be able to make some miles, even over snow on the
multi-mile approaches to passes and through the suncups.



Ned Tibbits, Director
Mountain Education
www.mountaineducation.org
-----Original Message-----
From: Aaron Nicholson
Sent: Saturday, May 18, 2013 10:08 PM
To: pct-l
Subject: [pct-l] Ice axe?

I'm getting mixed messages about whether I'll need an ice Axe in the sierras
this year. I plan on leaving Kennedy meadows on may 27th or so.
Any thoughts? Also, how's the mail speed into KM? If I were to have it
mailed on monday, would it arrive by the 27th? Thanks Aaron
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