[pct-l] ice axe details

[ned at mountaineducation.org]

Hi, Shelly!

Since you know we teach the use of ice axes for self-arrest, self-belay, and 
as an uphill anchor while traversing steep slopes, I won't go into the 
reasons for carrying and knowing when to have an axe in-hand when 
snow-hiking, but what I want to say right off the top is to commend you for 
seeking this skill level of safety protection, whether as a thru hiker on a 
border-to-border trail or as an early-season backpacker, say along the John 
Muir Trail!

To chime in with Yoshi, there is a time and place for an ice axe in the 
trained hands of the snow-hiker. If you don't know when to switch it off 
your pack with one of your poles, then it will just sit there like an 
expensive and heavy pack ornament while you fall down the hill. (This is 
where the training comes in).

An ice axe is a tool. As with all tools, you need to know when to use them 
and that the conditions in which they will be deployed will dictate the 
required length and strength of the axe.

If you want an axe to give you balance and function as a reliable uphill 
anchor for each step on steep, snowy side hills, then it needs to be long 
enough to reach from your down-extended hand to where its shaft length has 
penetrated vertically at least 3/4 or more into the snow on your uphill side 
(preferably sink the shaft all the way to the head for the best anchoring). 
Short-shafted axes are lighter, but in this context, do not provide much of 
an anchor should you fall and need it to prevent you from sliding down the 
hill. To figure out how long this needs to be, you need to go out onto the 
consolidated spring snow, find a steep climb up a typical PCT pass (anywhere 
from Trail Pass and Horseshoe Meadows north to Donner Pass), and cut a 
traverse route. You do not want to have to bend over much to get sufficient 
penetration to make a good anchor.

If you want your axe to serve only as a self-belay tool to help you climb 
right up the fall line of those passes, then pretty much any length will do 
since the whole shaft will be plunged into the snow right up to the head in 
front and above you making for a great anchor for the pull up and a 
third-leg balance point for all other moves.

If you want your axe to be there when you slip and fall so it can serve as a 
self-arrest tool, then length and strength are very important. You don't 
want too short of an axe that you can't control well when arresting (length 
is good) as it may come right out of your hands, though they are lighter. 
Typically, for this purpose you want a length that matches the distance 
measured from your anterior mid-clavicular line on one side of your body 
diagonally across your chest and down to your anterior iliac crest on the 
other. This length works well for all of our students when we teach them how 
to self-arrest, especially when on crusty, consolidated spring snow typical 
of what a PCT thru hiker will find in the Sierra in May, June, or July.

If you expect to use your axe to chop footholds across steep, icy fields 
(which can be encountered anywhere) or in chutes like on Forester Pass 
(footholds give you a place to put each step that will be predictably level, 
canted into the side slope, and free enough of ice so that your foot does 
not slip when you place it and put your weight on it), then you will need a 
long shafted axe that will allow you to chop "buckets" without bending over, 
becoming top-heavy, and risking the loss of your balance and falling. The 
construction of the axe is important, too, as it needs to be heavy enough to 
develop sufficient "swing force" to chip ice and not vibrate in your hand, 
which can get really tiring over the hour-and-a-half it usually takes me to 
chop my way across Forester's chute each May (see our Snow Advanced Course).

Now, you have to go out and decide for yourselves!

(Mountain Education runs mountain safety training courses from January to 
September teaching the skills necessary to negotiate all Sierra terrain 
(snow, dirt, and cross-country), creeks crossings, and deal with weather and 
medical concerns. See our new course listings, now, at 
http://www.mountaineducation.org/mountain-education-pages/courses/)



"Just remember, Be Careful out there!"

Ned Tibbits, Director
Mountain Education
South Lake Tahoe, Ca. 96150
    P: 888-996-8333
    F: 530-541-1456
    C: 530-721-1551
    http://www.mountaineducation.org
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "shelly skye" <shelbel26 at gmail.com>
To: <pct-l at backcountry.net>
Sent: Friday, October 21, 2011 9:22 AM
Subject: [pct-l] ice ax


> All-righty, I'm getting ready to buy my ice ax for next year. I am looking
> at a C.A.M.P.Corsa, 60cm that weighs 205 gm. I am 5'3" with average arm
> length (I think) so I am guessing this would be the correct length for me.
> The other option is a 70cm but that seems overly long from the safety and
> comfort of my desk. Does anyone have any thoughts or suggestions that 
> might
> help me with this decision? BTY, I have some experience with snow camping
> but none with exposure to steep hillsides with big boulders at the bottom.
> Oh, and I will be signing up for Ned's class come winter. (Thanks Ned!)
>
> -- 
> Shelly
> _______________________________________________
> Pct-L mailing list
> Pct-L at backcountry.net
> To unsubcribe, or change options visit:
> http://mailman.backcountry.net/mailman/listinfo/pct-l
>
> List Archives:
> http://mailman.backcountry.net/pipermail/pct-l/
> All content is copyrighted by the respective authors.
> Reproduction is is prohibited without express permission.