[pct-l] After Action Report - Eastern Sierra & PCT Expedition

[hiker97 at aol.com]

Once again your PCT hero and trial raconteur, Switchback, has cheated death once again. This time on the PCT at 8,600 foot Tuolumne Meadows, 9,624 foot Sonora Pass, and 7,723 foot Red’s Meadows Pack Station. 

The Long Suffering Mrs. Switchback, Max the Human Dog, and myself braved the Eastern Sierras and all the dangers therein. No hazard or risk was avoided or shunned. All perils were laughed at (or barked at).

Day 1, Saturday = We drive from Las Vegas to Bishop, CA to rest over night (RON). Lunch at Schat’s Bakkery (est. 1938) is great, but try to avoid the crowds. We sit outside on the patio and watch the people and the traffic go by. At the dog friendly motel I swim laps in their pool. I also talk to a couple on a Harley dresser motorcycle. They encourage me to start triking on a three wheel motorcycle. He says, "You are not getting any younger."

Day 2, Sunday = The next day it is off to beautiful Tuolumne Meadows Tent Camp in Yosemite NP. I use my Access Pass to get into the park free. We arrive at the tent camp and we notice a sign saying no domestic pets allowed. We head down to the roadside café and Mrs. Switchback takes Max on a lease to walk across the street on the trails in Tuolumne Meadows. Soon a ranger attacks her about having a dog in the meadow -- "only on pavement". The rules in parks have been that if you have a dog on a leash and pick up after your dog, you are fine. Not any more here. She comes back to the parking lot with just a warning. Soon we watch as another ranger on a horse trots far across the meadow after a group with a dog on a leash. 

We head back to the tent camp check-in and I ask if I could cancel my reservation for the night. Yes, they do that. As we drive back to the highway, we see an enthusiastic goose-stepping ranger walking fast on the paved road after a couple with fishing poles and two large dogs on leashes. She eagerly holds her citation book in her hand. 

I check out the PCT to make sure it is passable and in good condition before we turn on the highway to head east to 395 to escape the domestic animal police state. Max breaths a sigh of relief and wags his tail as we drive past the ranger park entry and guard post. He is no longer a wanted person (remember, Max thinks he is a person) and person of interest for the local authorities.

We head to Double Eagle Resort at June Lake, since they previously told me we could check in a day early as refugees from the park rangers. We have a doggie approved room booked for three days. Our room is over looking a beautiful fishing pond. Then we go to see the indoor pool and spa. Later, we have a great dinner at the resort restaurant. The sauces are exceptional. This resort is very quaint with many decorations of the old mining days. The views are fantastic of the surrounding mountains. If you ever have to relax and get away, this is the place to do it. It has Max's seal of approval for any of his doggie pals too.

Day 3, Monday = They give you $8.00 off each person’s breakfast meal when you check in. So, we have a great meal and then drive around the area to visit the lakes. After lunch, we relax and I go for a swim in the indoor pool and sit in the Jacuzzi. Soon it is time for our hot rock massage reservations at the attached spa facility. The Long Suffering Mrs. Switchback says her hot rock massage was the best she ever had -- ask for Vanessa. We float back to our room to walk Max and drift off the sleep.

Day 4, Tuesday = We go to Bodie State Historic Park to redo our visit of years ago. This old mining town is very interesting. Then we drive up to Sonora Pass to check out the PCT and help any hikers. The drive up through the backcounty has outstanding scenery. At Sonora Pass we take pictures and I look around the trail to see if it meets with my approval for hiker safety and grade. Everything checks out, so I am relieved that I do not have to inform the PCTA that they have to reroute the trail. No hikers are around to support, so we head back down to 395. We visit the historical town of Bridgeport. Later back at the Double Eagle, I go swimming, we have dinner and relax in our room.

Day 5, Wednesday = Sadly we bid a fond farewell to Double Eagle and head to exciting Red's Meadow Pack Station (near Devils Postpile National Monument). I am anxious to do some bear baiting like I do on the trail. Harassing bears is lots of fun. We check into our motel type dog approved room --- indoor plumbing with shower, etc. Not bad at all. I go over to the general store and check things out. I talk to a fellow with three other guys hiking south to north on a 14-day John Muir Trail thru-hike. He says he will be glad to get to Yosemite Valley. 

The dinner sever at the Mule House Café says about 9 PM is when the bears start to attack and the wranglers' dogs start to bark up at the corral. I make sure I am ready with my grizzly pepper spray and flash light. Mrs. Switchback is having nothing to do with these activities and my enthusiasm. I say that I could tie Max up to a tree as bait. She informs me that she does not think this is very funny as she gives me the unhappy wife look. Geesh, no body can take a joke anymore. 

As I do my vigil from the front porch chair later that night, I see one of the dogs race across the compound. I whistle for him to come over to get a pet on the head and back before he dashes off on his bear quest. Later I find out that his name was Krone. I see no bears but hear the dogs chasing him out of the area. Bears always come back a different way to see if they can find another way to foods. I keep a close look out. The moon is almost full, so I have a good view of the compound. After an hour I go back inside the room. There is no TV, so I come out periodically to check things out.

Day 6, Thursday = We wake up in our motel room cabin and head down to the Mule House Café for breakfast. The server lady talks about the bear attack last night on the trash barrel in front of the café --- they forgot to empty it. I ask her if she remembers Old Blue chasing the bears from years ago. She says she does remember him. I tell her he was there when I was backpacking through and staying at Reds Meadows. Last night's bear attack on the trash barrel was on the other side of the café from our room, so I did not see or hear the bear. Rats. Double rats. I ask about all the female backpackers I see. She says that there are a lot more now days and especially solo female backpackers. Wow. I did not know there were so many out on the trail now. They look very buff and like they could take care of any trail pirates. This is not good.

We pack up and start the hazardous and scenic drive back up to Mammoth. We stop so I can check out the PCT for safety and any maintenance issues. Everything looks good. Later at the monument entry station I ask the ranger at the entry point about my Access Pass not being honored on the way in. She says that this is an “expanded service area” and my pass is not good here. Nice. Real nice. Another $14 gone to the government.

We continue to 395 and the drive down to Bishop and the Schat's Bakkery (luckily we are early before the crowds arrive). Many goodies are loaded into the SUV. A massive weather front is now covering the Sierras. We head east out of Lone Pine to Death Valley NP. We stop at Stove Pipe Wells general store for lunch goodies and head across the unbearable heat to Beatty, NV. If you ever wanted to know what it is like to walk into an even, stop at Stove Pipe Wells at mid day --- zero feet elevation sign as you leave the area. After a few cloud bursts, we arrive safely in Las Vegas and home.

Yes, it was another successful expedition into the mighty Sierras completed and added to Switchback‘s impressive resume --- including backpacking on the PCT in 1970. 

Bountiful amounts of fun was had by all. Highlights faithfully and accurately reported by your humble and obedient servant.

Switchback the Trail Pirate
Undocumented PCT Thru-Hiker
"To me you are all illegal aliens." --- Sitting Bull