[pct-l] PCT hike, simple answers & advice

[Ned Tibbits]

Bubba,

Before I go through your questions, I want to remind you that the pct is vastly different than the at. It is longer, higher, and more remote from easy access to trail town resupply than the at. However, the wave of 300 to 400 who start the trip each year with the intent of hiking as light as possible and re-supplying as often as possible seem to be finding the routes off trail to towns, raking up the miles and losing precious trail time in order to do so. If this is your plan, it can be done, but you may have to increase your trail daily mileage to compensate for all the trips to town. I didn't hike this way when I did the pct and the cdt; my pack weighed more, but my daily mileage obligation was far less than the usual 20 to 30 mpd and I didn't have to leave the trail to get resupplies.

#!  I hiked the pct in 1974 when I was 17yo with 8 corporate sponsors. There wasn't much of a trail and even less of maps. I hiked the cdt in 1980 with 10 sponsors and virtually no trail. 

The pct was in my backyard. I had hiked some of it already and so it was very familiar to me. Basically, both are exposed and rugged routes. The grade was a little tougher on the cdt but the creek-crossings were harder on the crest. Resupply points were easier on the crest as I had family up and down the coast who drove my supplies out to my highway crossings and campgrounds. Mountain weather is the same. The crest is more populated, but the divide is catching up.

#2  All my food came from supermarkets for ease of access and change except for the freeze-dried sponsor who gave me a dinner every fourth night. My basic menu consisted of a hot breakfast of oatmeal & hot chocolate (very important to my style of hiking and my body's need in the morning) with 3 variations, for lunch a dried fruit, a bar, a powdered drink, and lots of gorp, and then for dinner a huge pot of noodle-based soup with freeze-dried veges and meat added. This worked when I was 17 and 24 and still does when I'm on the winter trail teaching mtn. safety skills.

#3 & 4  I hiked both trails after heavy winters, so on the crest I had snow from the moment I left the Mojave onto the Kern Plateau all the way to Washington in August. My winter pre-trip hikes in the Tahoe area in Feb. were on 28' of snow. Here is the philosophy I preach to my students, no matter 6" or 6' of the white stuff, your style and techniques will be the same, so in this light, start your hike based on the daily mileage you want and not the time of year. I started March 14th on the crest and March 1st on the divide. In order to make it to Canada before the new snows stopped me dead in my tracks (anytime after Sept 1st according to the Manning Park officials at the time) and average 17mpd with a d.o. every 5th day yet cover the 2650 miles, I had to leave that early. If you did that, now, you'd be ahead of the pack and having a great solo trip in the wilderness, if that's the type of trip you want; otherwise start later, stay in the party pack, and have quite the social hike of your life.

Regarding ice axes and crampons, the issue is one of style and timing rather than technique. At the time, I did carry both, and, although skilled at their use, I rarely needed them but chose to wait for the morning's climb up the pass to start later so the snow would be softer and I wouldn't need the dangerous crampons. The ice axe was always in my uphill hand in case I slipped and needed to self-arrest. I don't use walking sticks, but recommend BlackDiamond's "Whippet" pole used as an axe/pole (http://www.bdel.com/gear/fl_whippet.php). Don't go out on the trail expecting others to teach you how to use these tools; get training on-snow before you leave.

#5 answered already

#6  I don't believe you can start too early as long as you are realistic about dealing with snow. You CAN start too late, however, and not make to  Canada because of the early-season snow storms or the demand the schedule puts on your average daily mileage.

#7  I always carry a tent to assure I sleep well. When I know that there are no unwanted bugs eating me at night, I sleep better and that makes for clearer thinking/decisions and a safer and more fun trip. The mosquitoes in Oregon and the biting flies in Washington are horrendous; the quicker you can get into your tent at the end of the day, the fewer the bugs inside you need to kill, the easier to eat your hot meal without a bug in your food. Scorpions and spiders in the desert are a more real threat to the sleeper than snakes. Snakes like to sun themselves out on the trail or on rocks during the day; you won't find them in your bag at night.

#8  Hanging food is ineffective these days. The bears are too smart. Bear cans are required to be carried and used through the SEKI Parks. You can rent them starting at Kennedy Meadows, south, and return them at Echo Lake, hwy 50, at the north end. I have always cooked where I slept and have never had a problem. I have had several encounters with bears on the trail during the daytime with no troubles. Beware, however, of all Park bears--they expect you to have tasty food. Put your bear can 50 feet away from your tent at night and in a location where they won't launch it all the way down the hill at night.

#9  I don't recall the cost. This question you should put to the pct-l forum crowd for a recent estimate. (see the pcta site for the link to the listserve)

#10  I would not bring anything I had not intimately tested on-trail and knew that it worked well for me. Take people's advise and test it for yourself. I do not carry anything that puts me at risk of health and safety.  Ultralight can make you ultra-miserable and has the potential of ruining your pleasure or the trip altogether. I carry a heavy pack, but I'm happy and secure no matter the weather or circumstances. Test and retest; pack and repack. 

Just a few words of caution: 
    --don't rely on electronics.
    --carry maps that show you the ways out of the backcountry (lateral trails).
    --practice self-arrest and stream crossing techniques before you have to use             them.
    --take lots of pictures with the best quality camera you are willing to carry; you         may only do this once in your lifetime. Movie cameras document action                 better and include the sounds, too!
    --Don't get cold, wet or dehydrated. You may regret it too soon...
    --don't believe all you hear on the trail listserves. Test everything for yourself.
    --stay in communication with those concerned about you, even if you have to             carry a sat. phone. Use a roll-out solar charger.
    --read the trailjournals to see how other's trips went for them and endeavor to             avoid their mistakes.
    --carry lots of water and electrolytes.
    --use Deet, but speed and clothing works well, too. Don't forget a headnet!
    --Foot care and protection is paramount to a successful trip. Find out what kind         of shoe or boot works best for you (fit, scree, water, ankle support, trauma).
    --Carry and eat more food than you think you will need-you won't regret it!
    --if you're going to cook, stay in control of your flame. If you're not, test your             cold diet on a three week trip before the crest!
    --start slow and get the specific hiking muscles into shape. Don't push too                 soon. There will be time for that later once you're stronger.
    --know your weaknesses and bring whatever you need to help them out.
    --stay on trail as much as you can if that is why you're there. 
    --know what you need to do when Plan A fails.
    --know where you're going in your head before you get there and you'll know             how to find it.
    --once you're stronger, you can carry more luxuries and fun-stuff.
    --hope for the best, plan for the worst, and think it through before taking action.
    --carry forest service maps that show the most recent dirt roads.
    --know your surroundings, how you got there, and where you're going.
    --on snow, it doesn't matter if you're right on the trail, just know where its going.
    --evaluate dangers like steep slopes, ice, and rapids to find the safe way thru.             You don't have to cross the creek at the trail! Pull out your axe if the slope             looks like you might fall and slide into the rocks at the bottom.

Any other thoughts?

Mtnned

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  ----- Original Message ----- 
  From: Bubba Sandford 
  To: ned at mountaineducation.com 
  Sent: Friday, May 16, 2008 3:25 PM
  Subject: PCT hike


  Ned,

  I'm considering hiking the PCT and saw you listed as a mentor on the PCT site.  I thru-hiked the AT quite a few years ago (1990) and was hoping to ask you a few questions:  

  Have you hiked other trails and if so, what were the differences, both good and bad, between the trails?
  Was the food that you had on the PCT?
  Did you encounter alot of snow?  If so, did you carry an ice axe and hiking poles?  
  When did you start?  Was this too early or too late?
  Did you use a tent or just sleep out?  If you slept out, what did you do about snakes?
  Did you hang your food (from bears)?
  How much did it cost you?  
  What would you definitely not bring?  What would you bring that you didn't bring?
  What would you do differently if you did it again?

  I look forward to hearing from you.  Thanks,

  Bubba Sandford
  650-465-9082