[pct-l] Sleeping Bag Repair

[Ken Powers]

This probably isn't the most popular way, but I used duct tape.  I burned a 
small hole in my WM bag many years ago. In the field I had little choice but 
to use a small patch cut out of duct tape. I put the patch over the hole and 
pressed it on making sure it was smoothly attached all the way around the 
hole. After the hike I looked at the patch and decided to leave it on since 
it still looked good.

After being stuffed hundreds of times into my backpack, carried 10,000 
miles, and washed many times the patch finally showed that it was loosening. 
I pulled it off and cleaned the old glue from the fabric. Then I put another 
duct tape patch on it. It should be good for another 8 years!

I use the same method Donna described to wash the bag in our front loading 
washer. We have a front loading drier so I put the bag in the drier with 3 
tennis balls and set the drier to air fluff. Occasionally I boost the temp 
to low for a few minutes,  then back to air fluff. It takes hours to dry, 
but it comes out looking like new - except for that grey patch.

Ken
www GottaWalk com
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Donna "L-Rod" Saufley" <dsaufley at sprynet.com>
To: "Heath Haggerty II" <haggertyii at yahoo.com>; <pct-l at backcountry.net>
Sent: Tuesday, December 16, 2008 11:40 AM
Subject: Re: [pct-l] Sleeping Bag Repair


Your bag, which I know is not inexpensive (happy owner of a WM bag) is 
completely repairable.  Don't throw it out or buy a new bag ($$$)!!!

The holes can be repaired by taking some 1.1 ripstop impregnated silnylon 
and making patches with it. If you need some contact me off post and I'll 
mail you some. Glue the patches on, carefully sealing around the holes with 
glue appropriate for use on silnylon.  If you've lost down, you can replace 
it.  WM reportedly uses molted down, so no live birds are plucked to get 
these feathers.  You'll pay up for molted down, but you'll sleep better and 
it's sure better than buying a new bag.  I understand the easiest method to 
get the feathers in the bag is first decide how much you want to to add to 
the bag, then add water to the down so that it is quite liquid.  Then suck 
it up in (or pour it into) a turkey baster or other large syringe, and then 
squirt the whole watery glop into a small opening in the article, which you 
then seal up. When the water runs out and the feathers are dry, you're good 
as new. This method is better than trying to get all those little pesky 
feathers from flying all over.  I believe it was Marion Davison (Llama Lady) 
who posted how to do this once-upon-a-time.

Down can be washed using Nikwax Down Wash, specially formulated for down. 
I've used regular detergents too, with good results on all my down items. 
Just be sure to not use much soap, and include extra rinse cycles (this is 
true for all smelly hiker gear!). I wash on warm/cold, gentle cycle.  Set 
for high spin on the drainage.  Dry your bag in the dryer on low temp, and 
for best results throw 3 or 4 tennis balls in with the bag. This beats the 
feathers back to their original fluff and optimizes the heat retaining 
properties of the bag (fluffed down is more effective than flat down). The 
cycle should be long and slow.

The single most important thing when washing down is to NOT use fabric 
softeners of any kind -- not in the wash or in the dryer.

The Laundress (aka L-Rod)

-----Original Message-----
>From: Heath Haggerty II <haggertyii at yahoo.com>
>Sent: Dec 16, 2008 10:36 AM
>To: pct-l at backcountry.net
>Subject: [pct-l] Sleeping Bag Repair
>
>A "friend" of mine borrowed my $300 Western Mountaineering sleeping bag one 
>night without asking and slept too close to the fire. Upon returning it I 
>found three holes from embers burning through the outer skin. Not to 
>mention, he admitted to being intoxicated and urinating in my bag as well. 
>So, I am wondering if anyone has suggestions about the best way to go about 
>repairing the holes, then washing the down bag. IÂ know this sounds funny, 
>but it's true. Thanks everyone. - ShockerÂ
>
>
>
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