Re: [pct-l] Canister

[Jeff Eckert <jeeter@cari.net>]

Montedodge@aol.com wrote:

> In building your canister out of 8 inch PVC and after caps are glued in place.
> Put a thick bead of epoxy around edge of caps, then take a popcycle stick to
> smooth out the epoxy to create a hard taper from the cap edges to the canister
> body. This will keep claws off the edge of caps and keep them from pulling the
> caps off. This is a very good design. If some of you <snip> have a <snip>
> design, I,d love you to share it with us.

What schedule of PVC are you using?  Better yet, what wall thickness.  I measured
a Garcia at REI, and their wall is approximately 3/16".  I found that P&C duct
(also polyvinyl chloride) in a 6" diameter is also 3/16" thick.  My measurements
of PVC schedule 40 (a pipe standard) found the wall to be much thicker and the
equivilent amount of pipe to be excessively heavy.  The one I made, and now choose
not to use, was constructed as follows.

1.  Cut the pipe to length, plus 1/4"

2.  Trace the inside diameter of the pipe on a piece of flat PVC of appropriate
(3/16") thickness.  I used the lid from an 8" x 8"  PVC electrical junction box.

3.  Cut 1/4" of pipe from the end of the cannister body, and remove about a 1"
section from that ring.

4.  Cut out the disc from the flat PVC.

5.  Place the disc into the bottom of the pipe.

6.  Stand the bottom of the pipe on a flat surface, and from inside, press the
disc flat against the counter.  (Making it flush with the outside edge of the
cannister.

7.  Compress the 1/4" ring (like you would a piston ring), and slide it down
inside the cannister until it is flush to the disc.

8.  Remove everything, and repeat steps 5 through 7, using PVC cement.  When the
cement cured, I was left with an open ended cannister which was water tight, and
capable of supporting my two hundred pounds with the pressure vectored directly on
the disc.

9.  For the lid end, I used an "end cap", a fitting that designed only to seal off
the end of an open conduit.  I didn't use a two piece drain plug.

10.  Use a belt sander to bevel the edge of the cap to a smooth taper to remove
the only purchase point.

11. Drill a 1/16" hole in the cap.  Without the hole, the cannister is so air
tight the cap can hardly be pressed on.

12.  Place the cap in position on the cannister.  Drill a pilot hole through the
cap into the cannister wall.

13.  Drill a second hole in the same manner, 180 degrees in opposition to the
first.

14.  Remove the cap, and tap the holes to accept the set screw of your choice.  (I
used a 1/4-20 round head)

15.  Drill out the holes in the cap to allow the set screws to pass freely.




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