Re: [pct-l] Re: Ice Axe Practice

["Joanne Lennox" <goforth@cio.net>]

Well, the crampons and ski pole idea may work under certain condition.  If
anything goes wrong, then you could get into a major pickle.

The trouble with Crampons is they really need a major ,heavyweight ,
inflexible, boot, one that is not very comfortable on the trail.  If you
are trying to save weight or walking a trail, then you are likely to have a
fairly lightweight, flexible boot.  A number of people have lost their
lives when their crampons loosened on icey slopes, and they were not able
to resecure them without slipping or accidently put one unshod foot
down,etc.  

If it was a choice between choosing a set of crampons or an ice ax, I would
choose the ice ax. Mostly because the ice ax is not as likely to create a
set of conditions where you get strung out on something you can't handle
and it may be too late to turn back. Have you ever backed down an icey
slope
with 6 point crampons, and poles? Do you know how long your knees and
ankles hold
up going down faceout on a steep icey slope when your body is new to
crampons? 

The ice ax is your only back up if you do fall.  I think that the "do not
fall" philosophy for climbers is a good one.  It especially teaches
climbing students precision, and awareness in their foot work, and ice ax
placement, and attention to detail, focus, and the importance of self
evaluation.  But sooner or later, everyone falls, otherwise why know self
arrest techniques.  The "no falls" philosophy allows you to limit your
exposure to injury, it does not elimiate the possibility of falling.
The premise of "no falls" for an inexperienced person, or one that does not
have a GREAT DEAL of climbing experience is unrealistic. Even using
crampons for an experienced person can be dicey if they have not used them
recently,                   if  the snow is very uneven, or there are
factors contributing to balance problems (like a
sinus, or ear infection, white-out,etc.), or the snow collapses underneath
you. "catching" a crampon and slipping is very easy, even with six point
crampons.                       The next time you see a mountaineer with
gaitors on, check out his gaitors and you will see
whether or not he uses crampons very much.

Lets hope that the Sierras is its normal benign self this year, and if not,
then I would hope that those venturing forth have an ice ax, and lots of
PRACTICE in self arrest that makes it an effective tool.  No practice? then
stay off  steep, icey slopes and out of trouble, unless you want to risk
death or serious injury.


Sincerely
Goforth
----------
> From: reynolds@ilan.com
> To: Mark Tabb <mtabb@pcisys.net>
> Cc: pct-l-digest@edina.hack.net
> Subject: Re: [pct-l] Re: Ice Axe Practice
> Date: Monday, January 18, 1999 6:27 PM
> 
> I studied the ice axe issue in detail last year.
> 
> From Vermont came the argument -- don't fall in the first place. He
> recommended a set of Grivel 6 point crampons [no front spikes] and ski
> poles.
> 
> 
> * From the Pacific Crest Trail Email List |  http://www.backcountry.net  
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