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[pct-l] Ice Axe Standards



Oh, wait.....I just figured it out. *BackpackingLight.com*, a general
retailer and manufacturer of their own line of lightweight gear, is putting
the disclaimer on it, not ULA, the actual Helix manufacturer.

Oh, well....that's different.

BTW, I'm not a serious mountaineer nor do I plan to be one. I'll use an ice
axe, or Whippet, or Snowscopic or whatever, just for self arrest, but not
anything technical.

I'd never use the Helix as a mountaineering ice axe though. But then, I
doubt I'd use anything else, either....  ;o)  

Jerry


http://www.BackpackGearTest.org : the most comprehensive interactive gear
reviews and tests on the planet.


-----Original Message-----
From: pct-l-bounces@mailman.backcountry.net
[mailto:pct-l-bounces@mailman.backcountry.net] On Behalf Of Doodad PCT
Sent: Wednesday, January 25, 2006 9:28 PM
To: pct-l@mailman.backcountry.net
Subject: [pct-l] Ice Axe Standards

I'm concerned about backpackers' purchasing and using an important tool like
an ice axe which hasn't been properly tested for minimum safety standards.  
An ice axe is a serious mountaineering tool, whether it is used by a
"backpacker" or a "mountaineer."  If you are using an ice axe in a situation
where a slip could lead to a quickly-accelerating slide toward dangerous
terrain below, you need to be able to execute a self-arrest.

There has been some dicussion about the ULA Helix Ice Axe:

http://www.backpackinglight.com/cgi-bin/backpackinglight/ula_helix_ice_axe_c
arbon_fiber.html?id=9br9M4Eg:71.112.49.226

The Helix is marketed with the following warning:

WARNING: THE HELIX IS NOT CERTIFIED BY ANY RECOGNIZED MOUNTAINEERING SAFETY
ORGANIZATION TO MEET ANY LEVEL OF MINIMUM SAFETY STANDARDS. USING THIS TOOL
FOR THE FOLLOWING TECHNIQUES MAY RESULT IN ITS FAILURE WHICH MAY CAUSE
SERIOUS INJURY OR DEATH: ICE AXE ARREST, BOOT AXE BELAYS, PLUNGED SHAFT
BELAY/ARREST, PIOLET PANNE, PIOLET POIGNARD, PIOLET ANCRE, PIOLET TRACTION,
DRY TOOLING, OR OTHER TECHNIQUES BEST SUITED FOR B- OR T-RATED ICE TOOLS.

The universally-recognized safety standards organization for mountaineering
equipment is the Swiss-based UIAA.  See the UIAA standards for ice axes:

http://www.uiaa.ch/web.test/visual/Safety/PictUIAA152-EN13089Ice-Tools.pdf

I can't imagine why anybody would want to carry an ice axe, no matter how
lightweight, if it can't used for a self-arrest.  My Diamond ice axe is
rated "B" according to UIAA.  If I need to use it for a self-arrest, I don't
have to worry about its possibly coming apart in those seconds when my life
or health could depend on it.

Doodad
PCT Northbound 2006

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