[pct-l] Trail Towns - LONG post

[yogilists@hotmail.com (yogi hicker)]

WOW.  So many people responded in the last hour, I'm just gonna go ahead an=
d
post this here.  Look out, it's REALLY long.

----------------------------------

Here are my personal biased opinions of the towns along the trail.  I
recommend attending the ADZPCTKO.  It=92s really cool to meet your fellow
hikers, and if for no other reason, go just to get Meadow Ed=92s water cach=
e
information.  If you don=92t attend the ADZ, then watch the PCT-L for water
cache information.

This is a different trail than the AT.  One HUGE difference is your
footwear.  I HIGHLY recommend wearing the most breathable running shoes you
can find (check out New Balance 729=92s, 730=92s or 830=92s).  And wear onl=
y one
pair of thin liner socks.  Don=92t wear smartwools or thorlos or other wool
socks.  Southern California is simply too hot for that.  Also, don=92t buy =
a
bunch of shoes now so you can =93break them in=94.  Running shoes don=92t h=
ave to
be broken in, and your feet are going to swell so much (much more than on
the AT) that your second, third, fourth pair of shoes won=92t fit you when =
you
need them.  Figure out what shoes you like, then be sure you have 800
numbers or websites where you can order them when you need new shoes.  Ther=
e
aren=92t any places along the PCT to buy new shoes.  You=92d have to hitch =
far
away to a town, then try to find something.  Switch to something more sturd=
y
at Kennedy Meadows (check out New Balance 904=92s, 805=92s or 804=92s).  Yo=
u need
good tread on your shoes for the High Sierras.

Southern California is blistering hot during the day and freezing cold at
night.  Make sure your long-sleeved shirt is white, so you can hike in it i=
f
you want sun protection during the day.

Drink a lot of water.  Don=92t try to keep up with people.  Hike at your ow=
n
pace.  If you get down, and you think you don=92t want to do this anymore,
wait another week.  Then rethink your decision.  The PCT is an amazing
trail.  Every bad section, every bad day is followed by something great.
The scenery alone is enough to keep you amazed day after day after day.

When you go to bed at night, think about where you woke up yesterday
morning.  How many miles, how many passes, how many ridges, how many fords,
how many friends, how many conversations about everything and absolutely
nothing happened in those two days.

Here=92s some town information:

The milepoints I=92ve listed are from the Data Book.  In my opinion, the tr=
ail
guide (the big book with the maps) and the Data Book are absolutely
necessary.  The PCT is easy to follow, but trail junctions are usually not
signed.  Almost everyone carried the Town Guide, too.  We all ripped up the
books, and only carried the pages we needed.

Take a mosquito headnet and DEET.  When you leave Kennedy Meadows, be sure
you have a LOT of DEET.  Even if you think right now that you=92d never use
DEET, believe me, YOU WILL.  If you=92re not carrying a tent, be sure to ha=
ve
some mosquito netting and a way to rig it up so you can sleep at night.  Th=
e
mosquitos are bad, even in Southern California.  2001 was a WAY worse
mosquito year than 2002.  Hikers who didn=92t carry tents in Southern
California all picked them up at Kennedy Meadows.

Mosquitos RULE in the High Sierra.
Ants are EVERYWHERE in California and Oregon.

Campo CA - I didn=92t go into the trading post, so I=92m not sure what you =
could
buy there.  You could probably buy alcohol/HEET there.  Carry enough
alcohol/HEET to get to Big Bear City.  You can camp at the Little League
field, and get water from the fire station or at the trading post.  Officia=
l
PCT Register is at the Post Office, but there is also a register at the
monument.  Some of the books state that you have to check in at the Border
Patrol Office.  We went there in 2001, but the officers said we didn=92t ha=
ve
to.  In 2002, I didn=92t even bother going.

When you go to the monument, be sure to stick your foot under the fence, so
you can say you started in Mexico!!

20.0 - Lake Morena CA - The first reliable water north of Campo.  In 2001,
we paid $2 to tent in the backpacker=92s site.  This included a shower.  If
you attend the ADZPCTKO, you can camp for free, and still take a shower.

42.9 - Mt Laguna CA - You could resupply here if you=92re not picky.  We we=
re
at the end of the big thru-hiker pack in 2001, and the store was pretty
cleaned out by the time we got there.  There weren=92t any Liptons and only
4-5 boxes of Mac-n-cheese left.  In 2002, I was in the big wave, and the
store was stocked pretty good.  They have cheese.  I would do a drop with
dinners, and buy lunches and snacks in the store.  I don=92t remember if th=
ey
had alcohol/HEET.  There are motel rooms and cabins available, but I think
they=92re pretty expensive.  PCT Register at the store.

Mt Laguna Campground is about 5 trail miles past Mt Laguna.  They have
coin-operated showers.  You=92ll see a big wooden overlook deck sort of thi=
ng
right next to the trail.  That=92s where you go up the road to the campgrou=
nd.
  There is another place right across the street from the deck, some sort o=
f
lodge or something that offered free showers and let hikers sleep inside in
2001.

53.0 - Pioneer Mail Picnic Area - the water was turned on in 2001, turned
off in 2002.

Approximately 6 miles after Pioneer Mail is a big water cache.

78.1 - Scissors Crossing - HUGE water cache in 2002.  EMPTY water cache in
2001.  There is a stream here.

94.4 - Third gate after Scissors Crossing - big water cache.

110.6 - Warner Springs CA - You absolutely cannot resupply here.  The store
is just a TINY gas station, with drinks, candy bars, chips and a little
fruit.  No alcohol/HEET here.  PO.  Good restaurant at the golf course.  Th=
e
Town Guide states there is no lodging.  This is a lie.  There is lodging at
the resort, which has REALLY CHEAP hiker rates.  Something like $45-50 for =
a
room with two beds.  Lots of hikers piled 6-8 people in one room.  Laundry
at the resort=97one washer and one dryer.  There are two HUGE olympic-sized
pools at the resort, one regular and one filled by the hot springs.
DEFINITELY stay here, and take a day off if you need it.  PCT Register at
the PO.

144.8 - Kamp-Anza Road - There is a HUGE water cache here.

153.7 - Pines-to-Palms Highway - Go to Idyllwild from here.  It=92s an easy
17-mile hitch.

To get to Idyllwild, the books tell you to leave the PCT at Saddle Junction
(milepoint 180.2) via the Devil=92s Slide Trail down to Idyllwild.  I don=
=92t
see the logic in this.  You go up 3200 vertical feet in the 27 miles betwee=
n
Pines-to-Palms Highway and Saddle Junction.  Then they want you to walk bac=
k
DOWN on a side trail to Idyllwild.  Then, walk back UP to the PCT when you
leave Idyllwild.  Don=92t do it.  Go to Idyllwild the day before via
Pines-to-Palms Highway and avoid the extra hiking.

The California trail guide (we called it =93The Book of Lies=94) is very
anti-hitch hiking.

There is a good restaurant called the Paradise Caf=E9 about 1 mile off the =
PCT
on Pines-to-Palms Highway.  Even if you don=92t go to Idyllwild from here,
DEFINITELY go to the restaurant.  Good food.  PCT Register.  They=92re clos=
ed
on Tuesdays, I think.  Even when they=92re closed, they leave the hose on t=
he
side of the restaurant turned on so PCT hikers can get water.  And you HAVE
to get water here.

Idyllwild CA - Good place for a zero day.  Full-service.  Sort of like
Gatlinburg without the neon.  Good outfitter, but I think it=92s closed on
Tuesdays.  Laundry, grocery, PO, alcohol/HEET.  Carry enough alcohol to get
from Idyllwild to Big Bear City.  I think there is a PCT Register at the PO=
.
  Stay at the Taquitz Motel=97they=92re VERY hiker friendly.  You can camp =
in
town at a Forest Service Park very near the Taquitz Motel.  I think camping
is $1 or $2.

170.5 - Apache Spring - =BD mile off the trail way the hell DOWN the ridge =
you
just climbed up.  Like a 700-800 feet elevation drop.  Everyone who goes to
this spring comes back to the trail PISSED.  I=92d carry water from the
restaurant at Pines-to-Palms Highway and avoid this spring.

182.0 - Wellmans Cienaga Trail - This is the side trail to the top of San
Jacinto Peak.  If you=92re not pure, you can take a 6-mile loop trail to th=
e
top of San Jacinto, then rejoin the PCT 4.4 trail miles north of where you
got off.  Or you could just go up to the top, then come back down the same
way and not miss any of the PCT.  You can buy a map of the San Jacinto area
at the Idyllwild outfitter.  I skipped San Jacinto in 2001, and regretted i=
t
later.  I figured I=92d be on the top of lots of mountains, so I didn=92t n=
eed
to hike this extra one.  Well, the PCT does not go to the top of mountains.
It crosses at the passes.  In 2002, I took this loop trail.  AWESOME.  Don=
=92t
miss it.  If you don=92t do this loop, be careful around mile 186.4.  This =
is
where the San Jacinto loop trail rejoins the PCT, and  I know of hikers who
took the wrong trail here.  The PCT goes left, toward Fuller Ridge.  The
more prominent trail is the side trail, going up the ridge to the right.

212.0 - Cabazon CA - Very small grocery store, but you could resupply here.
Cheese.  I don=92t remember if there was alchohol/HEET.  Denny=92s restaura=
nt.
The PO and the store are on the other side of the interstate from Denny=92s
and the concrete dinosaurs.

Approximately 213.5 - The Pink Motel - The Pink Motel is Don and Helen
Middleton=92s place about 1.5 to 2 miles past the interstate.  It=92s NOT a
motel and it=92s NOT pink.  It looks like a junkyard.  There is a room with=
 a
bunch of sofas, and another room with a kitchen.  You can bring food from
Cabazon and cook here.  The Middleton=92s bring water and a little bit of f=
ood
for hikers.  A place you don=92t want to miss.  You won=92t see any signs o=
r
hear about it until AFTER crossing the interstate.  Trust me, it=92s there.
In 2002, the Middleton=92s accepted maildrops.  Check the PCT-L archives fo=
r
their address.  I=92m pretty sure someone posted their address in March or
April 2002.  We took a zero day here in 2001.

257.9 - Arrastre Trail Camp at Deer Spring - This is an established campsit=
e
with picnic tables and fire pits.  If there is no water at the campsite, go
about .1 - .2 mile farther north on the PCT, and you=92ll find a little
stream.

267.4 - Highway 18 - goes straight to Big Bear City.  But NOOOOOO, the book=
s
don=92t tell you this.  They have you do a 3-mile jeep road walk (on Van Du=
sen
Canyon Road at milepoint 276.3) to get to Big Bear City.  Be smart and hitc=
h
in from Hwy 18.

276.3 - Van Dusen Canyon Road to Big Bear City - This is a dirt road.
Hikers I knew missed the road, because they were looking for a paved road.
This is where the books say to leave the PCT to go into Big Bear City.
There is no traffic on this jeep road.  If you do walk this road into Big
Bear City, the taxi service will take you back to the trail junction for
$20, so you can avoid the road walk back to the trail.

Big Bear City CA - Ask your hitch to drop you off at the fire station in Bi=
g
Bear City, not Big Bear Lake.  Hikers camp at the Big Bear City fire statio=
n
for free.  GREAT SHOWER!!  Grocery store, lots of restaurants, laundry,
alcohol/HEET.  Carry enough alcohol/HEET to get from Big Bear City to
Wrightwood.  Good place to take a day off, =91cause you don=92t have to pay=
 to
stay at the fire station.  There is a Motel 6, which had $39 hiker rate in
2002.  PCT Register at the PO.

There is a bus that takes you to from Big Bear City to Big Bear Lake, $1 I
think.  Big Bear Lake is larger than Big Bear City, with two large grocery
stores, a full-service town, library with internet in 2001. In 2002, I hear=
d
that hikers weren=92t allowed to use the internet there.

279.0 - Cougar Crest Trail - Be careful here.  This junction was signed
incorrectly in 2001, and many hikers ended up going left down the Cougar
Crest Trail toward Big BearLake.  The PCT goes right.  Look at your map.

322.9 - Summit Valley Country Store - .3 mile off the PCT, down on Hwy 173.
Snacks and cold drinks.  You cannot resupply here.  There were new owners i=
n
2002, so I don=92t know if the name is the same.  It opened a couple days
after I passed in 2002.

325.8 - Hwy 173 - The trail gets a little confusing here.  They take you ou=
t
onto the highway to cross a bridge, then the trail tread continues on the
SAME SIDE of the highway you=92ve been walking on.  You don=92t cross the
highway.  Look at your map.

Around 330 - Silverwood Lake - DEFINITELY go down to the Recreation Area to
get water. When you get close, maybe a mile before the highway offramp,
you=92ll see side trails down to the Recreation Area.  If you=92re not pure=
,
after getting water you can walk the road out of the Recreation Area and
pick up the PCT again at the bike path.  You won=92t see any other water af=
ter
here until McDonald=92s.  The small stream at mile 335.4 does not exist.

344.7 - Interstate 15 - MCDONALD=92S!!!  Don=92t camp anywhere near here.
Trains go through all night long blaring their horns.  Get at least to
Swarthout Canyon Road (mile 350.2) before camping.

365.9 - Acorn Canyon Trail to Wrightwood - Don=92t go to Wrightwood from he=
re.
  Another one of those side trails way down the ridge that you have walk al=
l
the way back up to get back to the trail.  If you go to Wrightwood from
here, you walk 4.5 miles OFF TRAIL down to Wrightwood, then walk the same
4.5 miles back up to the PCT when you leave town.  Instead,  you could walk
only 6 more miles north on the PCT and hitch to Wrightwood on Angeles Crest
Highway 2 (at mile 371.9).

366.8 - Guffy Campground - Supposed to be water here, but nobody could find
it.

371.9 - Angeles Crest Highway - Hitch to Wrightwood from here, but if you=
=92re
early in the season, BE SURE to find out if this highway is open.  I heard
that it=92s not always open.  Maybe because of snow, but I=92m not sure.  I=
t was
open in 2001 and 2002, and I was early in 2002.  Got there on May 15.

Wrightwood CA - Good place for a zero day.  Neat town.

There are 2 motels that are disgusting:  Pines Motel and Sky Lodge.  The
Mountain View Motel is a little better, but not much.  There is a new place
called The Crystal Island Hotel.  When you=92re standing in front of the
Hardware store and look across the street and up the hill, you can see it.
I would suggest finding the phone number for this hotel, and calling for a
reservation from McDonald=92s, cause they only have 8 rooms.

I heard you can camp at one of the schools, but I=92m not sure if that=92s =
true.
  In 2002, there were trail angels (listed in the PCT Register at the
Hardware store) who let hikers camp at their house. PO, GOOD grocery store,
bars, restaurants.  No laundromat.  Internert service at the library.  Kind
of touristy.  Alcohol/HEET at the hardware store.  Carry enough alcohol to
get from Wrightwood to Agua Dulce.

380.3 - Mt Baden-Powell - DEFINITELY go to the top.  It=92s like .3 mile of=
f
the PCT.

401.2 - Camp Glenwood - Water was turned on in 2001, turned off in 2002.  B=
e
careful.  This is a very hot section.

419.2 - Mill Creek Summit - Water was turned on in 2001, turned off in 2002=
.

436.5 - Nork Fork Ranger Station - Cool dude named Todd works there.  He=92=
ll
let you take a shower if you ask, but he won=92t advertise this.

445.2 - Soledad Canyon Road - There is a campground to the left.  I heard
you can order pizza from there.  Pop machine!  And restrooms!

454.9 - Agua Dulce CA - Remember Kincora?  Well, this is the Kincora of the
PCT.  Jeff and Donna Saufley try to have every single PCT hiker stay with
them.  All this is exclusively for hikers:  a full-sized mobile home, parke=
d
RV, BIG tents, phone, computer with internet service, kitchen, TV with
movies, SHADE, and grass.  OH, and they let hikers use their jeep to drive
anywhere:  restaurant, REI, grocery, wherever.  AND, Donna does the laundry=
.
  Do not miss the Saufley=92s!!!  Some of the books list the Century 21 off=
ice
or a Post Office as the maildrop info for Agua Dulce.  Neither one exists
anymore, and Donna says that all hiker mail comes to her home, no matter
where it is addressed.  Here=92s the Saufley=92s information:

Jeff & Donna Saufley
11861 Darling Road
Agua Dulce, CA  91350
661-268-1235
dsaufley@sprynet.com

Todd at Nork Fork Ranger Station has information on how to get to Donna=92s=
.
Basically, the PCT goes right through town (like in Hot Springs and
Damascus).  Turn left onto Darling Road (the road just after the convenienc=
e
store), walk one mile.  Donna=92s is on the right.  You=92ll know it when y=
ou
see it.  Great place to take a zero day.  Or two zero days.  Or three zero
days.  Many hikers get sucked into this vortex.

Donna has valuable water cache information for the trail north of here.
Alcohol/HEET.  Carry enough alcohol to get from Agua Dulce to
Tehachapi/Mojave.

Agua Dulce (or Tehachapi/Mojave) is a good place to resupply for the
Sierras.  Many hikers mail themselves drops to to Kennedy Meadows,
Vermillion Valley Resort, and Tuolumne Meadows.  Watch the PCT-L for the KM
address.  I think the address in the Town Guide might be wrong, but I=92m n=
ot
sure.

465.2 - Bouquet Canyon Road - Anderson water cache.  There is another one
about 5 miles north of here, and one more farther down the trail.  Donna ha=
s
all this water cache information.

477.6 - The Anderson=92s - More trail angels.  They live a few miles off th=
e
trail where it crosses San Francisquito Canyon Road.  Many hikers stay at
their house.  Donna Saufley has information on how to get there.  Really
good people.

516.0 - Jack Fair=92s Place - Jack is dead, and there are new people living=
 at
the house.  In 2002, they still let hikers get water from their place, and
later on I heard that they were going to build a hostel.  Not sure if this
is true.  Definitely get water here.

532.4 - Cottonwood Creek Bridge - The Data Book has this as a water source,
but there is no creek.  Don=92t freak out.  Shortly before the bridge, on t=
he
right side of the trail, you=92ll see a concrete opening in the aqueduct.  =
Be
sure to have a filter for this.

555.1 - Tehachapi-Willow Springs Road - Hitch opposite directions to
Tehachapi CA or Mojave CA.

563.7 - Tehachapi Pass Hwy 58 - Hitch opposite directions to Tehachapi CA o=
r
Mojave CA.  This is a major highway crossing, and is not listed in the Data
Book as a road.  Go figure.

Here=92s your options:

(1)  Get off at Tehachapi-Willow Springs Road.
=09101-mile resupply from Agua Dulce to Tehachapi/Mojave.
=09142-mile resupply from Tehachapi/Mojave to Kennedy Meadows.

(2)  Get off at Hwy 58.
=09109-mile resupply from Agua Dulce to Tehachapi/Mojave.
=09134-mile resupply from Tehachapi/Mojave to Kennedy Meadows.

Tehachapi CA - I went to Tehachapi in 2001.  The PO is way far away from
town.  Like over a mile away.  I wouldn=92t go to Tehachapi again.  Nice to=
wn,
but it=92s too spread out.  Motels, restaurants, alcohol/HEET, grocery stor=
e.
PCT Register at the PO.  Carry enough alcohol to get to Kennedy Meadows.  I=
f
you didn=92t resupply for the Sierra when you were in Agua Dulce, this is a
good place to do that, IF you have transportation to the Post Office.

Mojave CA - I went to Mojave in 2002.  Good stop.  Yeah, it=92s hotter than
Tehachapi, but they=92re BOTH really hot.  The White=92s Motel is great to
hikers, but the White family is trying to sell the motel, so I=92m not sure=
 if
this is all going to be true in the future.  The White=92s motel will pick =
you
up from and drive you back to the trail for free if you stay at their motel=
.
  You have to call to arrange a pickup.  They=92ll pick you up from either
Tehachapi-Willow Springs Road or from Hwy 58.  The PO is only about 3 block=
s
from the Motel.  The grocery store is a mile away, but there is a public bu=
s
system.  There is a laundromat, although the Town Guide says there is not
one.  Many restaurants, but they=92re all fast-food type.  There is a good
diner.  If you didn=92t resupply for the Sierra when you were in Agua Dulce=
,
this is a good place to do that.

604.7 - SNF Road 29SO5 - water .3 mile off trail here.  The next SURE water
is 28.5 miles north of here.  If you=92re NOT going to count on the water
caches, you need to take a couple gallons of water from here.  You have no
way of knowing if the caches will be full or empty.  They were full in 2001=
,
empty in 2002.  When they were empty, that sucked.

611.8 - Kelso Valley Road - The information you get at Donna=92s states tha=
t
there is a water cache here.  It was full in 2001, and EMTPY in 2002.

613.9 - Butterbredt Canyon Road - Gross cow water 1.2 mile off the PCT here=
.
  Be sure to have a filter.

627.2 - Bird Spring Pass - The information you get at Donna=92s states that
there is a water cache here.  It was full in 2001, and EMTPY in 2002.

There actually are TWO caches here.  About .2 mile before Bird Spring Pass,
look for a wooden =93water=94 sign on the right side of the trail.  It=92s =
easy to
miss.  A few feet up to the right, you will find seven green 5-gallon water
jugs.  The second cache is down at the actual pass.  That cache is the
normal white one-gallon water bottles.

633.2 - Yellow Jacket Spring.  Gross cow water .7 mile down the ridge off
the PCT here.  Be sure to have a filter.

647.8 - Onyx CA - Not much there.  Just a big convenience store and a PO.
Snacks, drinks, cheese, microwave food, soups/stews.  It=92s a long hitch, =
but
flavored beverages sure were nice on a hot day!!

697.0 - Kennedy Meadows CA - Good store, shower, laundry, ride to a
restaurant for dinner.  You could resupply here if you=92re not picky at al=
l,
but I=92d suggest sending a maildrop.  Snacks, drinks, cheese, a little fru=
it,
a few lipton=92s and mac-n-cheese.  They don=92t have anything delivered, t=
hey
go to some town and purchase all their supplies something like once per
week.  So, they may have a lot of stuff in the store, or they may be cleane=
d
out.  Make sure your box is here at least a week before you, since they
don=92t pick up their mail every day.  PCT Register.

If you=92re carrying an ice axe, pick it up here and keep it until Echo Lak=
e
(mile 1089).  Get some warmer clothes, too.  Alcohol/HEET at the store.
Carry enough alcohol/HEET to get to VVR or Tuolumne or Echo Lake/South Lake
Tahoe.  You MAY find alcohol in VVR or Tuolumne, but that=92s not a sure
thing.   DEFINITELY mail yourself some DEET here.  There is a $2 charge for
every box you pick up.

The books state there is not a phone here.  There IS a pay phone, but it=92=
s
weird.  It costs 35 cents for every 5 minutes on the phone, even when using
a calling card, calling collect, anything.  You cannot make a phone call
without 35 cents, so make sure you arrive with some change, in case you get
there after the store closes.  The pay phone DOES accept incoming calls, so
whoever you call can call you back.

You can mail boxes out from here.  You tape $2 to the box, and it is
supposed to arrive at your destination COD.  In both 2001 and 2002, all the
boxes I mailed out from KM arrived at my destination, and I did not have to
pay COD charges.  Just the original $2!!  Be careful, though, cause a box I
mailed to myself from KM to Tuolumne in 2002 didn=92t make it to Tuolumne b=
y
the time I walked there, 15 days later.

The actual campground is a couple trail miles past the store.  Good place
for a zero day.

There is a map set for the John Muir Trail.  I think it=92s called the =91T=
om
Harrison Map Pack=92 or something like that.  It=92s sold on the PCT websit=
e for
something like $15-20.  These maps take you from Mt Whitney to Tuolumne
Meadows.  I suggest taking these maps.  They REALLY helped in 2002, when th=
e
snow was so bad and we couldn=92t see the trail.  In 2001, when there was N=
O
SNOW, the maps would have been dead weight.

730.2 to 736.7 - The water sources that are listed in this stretch are hard
to find and gross.

760.5 - Crabtree Meadow - The Mt Whitney sidetrip is only 17 miles roundtri=
p
from Crabtree Meadow.  Don=92t miss it!!  We did not have Whitney permits i=
n
2001, and didn=92t see any rangers EITHER year.

784.4 - Kearsarge Pass Trail - BEAUTIFUL side trail!!  This is where you go
to Independence CA or Bishop CA.  Independence is SMALL.  Bishop is farther
down the highway, and is full-service (with alcohol/HEET and internet).  I=
=92m
not sure what Independence has, cause we went to Bishop in 2001.  In 2002, =
I
didn=92t go out of the Sierra to resupply.  I walked straight through from =
KM
to VVR.

871.3 - Vermillion Valley Resort - Another place you just CAN=92T miss!  Yo=
u
take about a 1.5 mile side trail to Lake Edison, where VVR sends a boat to
pick you up.  The boat comes twice a day, something like 9:30am and 4:30pm.
You sleep in perm-a-tents, those walled tents with wooden floors and bunk
beds.  Good restaurant, small store, may have alcohol/HEET, laundry,
showers.  Really great place.  It=92s $6 per package to either pick up or m=
ail
out, so be smart with your boxes.  If you include this location on your
maildrop list for your friends and then you get 4 care packages, it will
cost you $24. Definitely send a food drop, because you cannot resupply out
of the store.  You can buy cheese from the restaurant, but you have to ask.
You could buy snacks at the store, but that=92s about it.  PCT Register.

In 2001, I spent over $100 in 24 hours there.  In 2002, $148.  The
round-trip boat ride is $15.  There is some deal on lodging, like the first
night is free, or the second night is free, something like that.  Your firs=
t
beer is free!  The resort has been sold, but the old owner told me that the
new owner is very hiker-friendly and wants to keep the PCT thing going.
Good place to take a zero day, if you don=92t mind spending a lot of money.

896.9 - Side trail to Mammoth Lakes - Another stupid side trail.  This one
is 4.9 miles to Mammoth Lakes.  I don=92t know anyone who took it.  Instead=
,
walk 3.8 miles farther on the PCT to Reds Meadow, where there is a bus that
can take you to Mammoth Lakes.  The bus runs periodically through the day,
but it doesn=92t start running until June 15, I think.  You can check onlin=
e
for the dates.

900.7 - Reds Meadow - about .2 mile off the PCT, you just can=92t pass it u=
p.
Restaurant with average food, small store. The restaurant closes at 7pm
SHARP.  If you need to resupply or want a motel, take the bus to Mammoth
Lakes, which is supposed to be full-service.  I didn=92t go to Mammoth.  Yo=
u
could get snacks here, but you cannot resupply.  The store is NOT geared
toward hikers.  They do have cheese.  I don=92t know about alcohol/HEET.

Don=92t miss the FREE hot spring showers at the campground!!

935.7 - Tuolumne Meadows CA - The Lodge and the Store/PO are a couple miles
apart, but there is a free bus service.

AT THE STORE, there is a nasty park service snack bar, but at least it=92s
food!  Surprisingly good store, you could resupply here.  Fruit and cheese.
I saw hikers picking up maildrops in the store after the PO closed.  The PO
is attached to the store.  PCT Register at the PO.  Tenting is cheap, maybe
$5, I don=92t remember.  The store does not have alcohol/HEET.  There is a =
gas
station next to the store, but I don=92t know if it had alcohol/HEET.

AT THE LODGE,  you can rent tent cabins which have  wood-burning stoves, an=
d
there is a restaurant with average food.  Or, you could just take a shower
for $2, and that includes a towel.

BE SURE you have a lot of DEET when you leave Tuolumne.

1089.4 - Echo Lake CA - If you want to stay here, walk about .3 mile RIGHT
down the paved road at milepoint 1089.4, and you=92ll see Berkeley-Echo Lak=
e
Camp on the left side of the road.  (The PO/Store is just to the LEFT on th=
e
same road).  The camp is one of those places that kids go to for basketball
camp.  They let hikers stay here.  In 2001, it was something like $12-15 to
stay and shower.  We could also eat meals, something like $6 breakfast, $10
dinner.

The store and PO are in one building, to the LEFT on the same road you took
RIGHT to the camp.  The store is small, but you could probably resupply her=
e
if you=92re not picky.  I don=92t remember, cause I didn=92t need to resupp=
ly.  I
don=92t know if they had alcohol/HEET.

I suggest going to South Lake Tahoe and taking a zero day there.  There are
MANY cheap motels ($32 double) and a bunch of casino all-you-can-eat
buffets.  Laundry, PO, restaurants, KMart, grocery, movie theaters,
EVERYTHING.  Right when you get into South Lake Tahoe, there is a place
called =93the Y=94 where the main street into South Lake Tahoe branches off=
 of
the highway.  If your hitch drops you here, you can take the bus all over
town.  It=92s $2/day to ride, I think.  This makes South Lake Tahoe really
convenient for hikers.

It will be MUCH easier to hitch to South Lake Tahoe from Highway 50, at mil=
e
1087.9, which is 1.5 , miles BEFORE Echo Lake.  There isn=92t much traffic
into and out of Echo Lake.  The Town Guide implies that at Echo Lake there
is a list of South Lake Tahoe motels which will come pick you up.  This is =
a
lie.

There is an REI in Reno, which is about an hour from South Lake Tahoe.
There are shuttle services from South Lake Tahoe to Reno for about $20 one
way.

1121.7 - Barker Pass - DO NOT plan on going into Tahoe City from here.  Thi=
s
is a dirt road with no traffic.

1150.1 - Pooh Corner - You=92ll see signs with phone number and instruction=
s.
This is someone=92s condo on a lake.  They take maildrops, but claim that
priority mail takes twice as long to get there as it normally would.

You can call Pooh Corner either from the Ski Resort at Donner Pass (mile
1150.1), or from the rest area on I-80 (mile 1153.1), and they will pick yo=
u
up.  At both places, the phone number is posted near the pay phone.  Here=
=92s
the information:

Bill and Molly Person
PMB 154
11448 Deerfield Drive
Truckee, CA  96161
530-587-4485
bill@billperson.org

1153.1 - I-80 Rest Area - Right after you go under the interstate, there is
a junction with a trail sign and a side trail up to the rest area.  Don=92t
take this side trail.  Continue on the PCT for maybe 5 minutes and you will
end up directly behind the rest area.  You=92ll see it.  From this spot, th=
ere
is an unsigned side trail over to the rest area building.  There is nothing
at the rest area except bathrooms and water fountains.  No snack or pop
machines.

1191.5 - Sierra City CA - Small store, but you could resupply here if you=
=92re
not picky.  Drinks, snacks, fruit, cheese.  PCT hikers used to camp free at
the RV park.  Free showers, too.  But, something happened in 2002, and I
heard they are no longer welcoming hikers.  You might watch the PCT-L for
more information on this.  Very small town.  A couple restaurants, PO, smal=
l
store, laundry, a couple motels.  PCT Register at the PO.  Both years, I
camped at the RV park, so I don=92t know what the motels are like.  I don=
=92t
know about alcohol/HEET.

1198.7 - Sierra Buttes Jeep Trail - about 5-10 minutes after this jeep road
is a gushing spring on the left side of the trail.  It=92s not listed in th=
e
Data Book.  You=92ll notice the change in vegetation and you=92ll hear it. =
 This
is an important water source, =91cause if you don=92t know about it, you ha=
ve to
carry 14 miles of water out of Sierra City, which includes a hot, exposed
2700-foot climb.

1205.7 - Summit Lake Road - The Data Book indicates that the water is
southEAST.  It=92s not.  It=92s to the southWEST.  Look at the map.

1229.5 - Quincy-LaPorte Road - You could go into Quincy from here, but it=
=92s
a HARD HITCH.  No cars on this road.  I don=92t suggest it.  To get water
here, go left .25 mile down the road to a spot where the highway goes over =
a
creek.  Go down on the left side of the highway to filter from the creek.

Quincy CA - full service, nice town.  You could hitch in from Belden.  MUCH
easier hitch than Quincy-LaPorte Road.  Internet at the library, Safeway,
PO, restaurants, motels, laundromat, alcohol/HEET.  Carry enough alcohol to
get to Dunsmuir.

1283.1 - Belden Town Resort - The store accepts UPS packages, and there is =
a
$5 fee to pick up each box.  The small store only has snacks and drinks.
You cannot resupply here.  Not sure about lodging here.  There is a bar tha=
t
might have food, I=92m not sure.  The PO is about a mile down a busy, narro=
w
highway.  There is a side trail from the PO up to the PCT, so if you=92re n=
ot
pure, you don=92t have to backtrack into Belden after going to the PO.

A lot of hikers I knew hitched into Quincy from Belden.  If you=92re going =
to
Quincy, send your maildrop to Quincy instead of Belden.  If you go to
Quincy, you don=92t really need a food drop =91cause there is a huge Safewa=
y in
Quincy.

When leaving Belden, you might see an alternate route and signs stating tha=
t
the PCT is closed due to a rock slide.  In 2002, it was fixed, and we walke=
d
the =93closed=94 PCT with no problems.

1304.8 - Pond west of the trail - This was dry in 2002.  Get your water 2.4
miles back at Cold Springs.

1329.7 - Highway 36, Chester CA - Definitely go into Chester.  I have no
clue why this town is not listed in the books.  It=92s EXACTLY at the halfw=
ay
mark on the trail, it=92s only an 8-mile hitch, and it has everything you
need:  motels, really good grocery store, laundry, pay showers at the
laundry, PO, good restaurants, all in a compact town.  The only drawback is
that I was told that NONE of the motels have air conditioning, and you=92ll=
 be
here in July.  It=92s hot.  If you do go to Chester, when you hitch in, pay
close attention to where the trail crosses the highway.  If I remember
right, there was a 45mph speed limit sign and maybe a curve in the road or =
a
curve ahead sign.  It=92s really hard to spot the trail from a car going 55
mph.

1348.1 - Drakesbad Guest Ranch - is around this milepoint.  It=92s shortly
before Warner Valley Campground.  The Book Of Lies states that Drakesbad is
a private facility, but I heard that hikers are welcome.  A lot of hikers
got really good food there.

1371.6 - Old Station CA - Small store, but you cannot resupply there.  Frui=
t
and cheese.  In 2002, there was NOT a restaurant or a pizza place.
Microwave food at the store.  PO, laundry, free showers, PCT Register at th=
e
PO.  I don=92t know if they have alcohol/HEET.  You cannot camp on the lawn=
,
but you can camp back along the PCT.  Don=92t even try to camp on the lawn,
because the sprinklers come on automatically very early in the morning.
There is a motel there, I think it was $60/room.  Check the register at the
PO for information about =93Cache 22=94.

1375.7 - Subway Cave - Take the side trail.  It=92s maybe .5 mile off the P=
CT.
  Cool cave, be sure to take your headlamp.

1392.5 - Road 22 - There will probably be an awesome water cache here.  It=
=92s
called =93Cache 22=94 and is provided by Will and Mary Snyder, the parents =
of
Amigo, a CRAZY PCT hiker.  Check the register at the Old Station PO for
information on this cache.

1417.5 - Burney Falls State Park - Gross snack bar food.  Small store, you
could resupply to get you to Castella/Dunsmuir if you=92re not very picky.
It=92s pretty expensive, though.  Cheese.  I think there was a $5 fee to pi=
ck
up boxes.  Coin-operated showers at the campground.  You CANNOT mail boxes
out of here, letters only.  Some people went into the town of Burney
(different from the park) on Hwy 299 at mile 1409.8.  I think the town of
Burney is full-service.

1500.4 - Dunsmuir CA and Castella CA - I didn=92t go to Castella.  Dunsmuir=
 is
a nice town.  The map in the Town Guide is for Castella WRONG.   It shows
the PCT crossing the page diagonally, and another dashed trail going up to
the I-5 interchange.  The PCT is actually the dashed line up to I-5.  Who
knows what that diagonal trail is.

To get to Dunsmuir:  The PCT crosses over Riverside Road.  About 5 minutes
later, you=92ll hit another paved road.  I think this is Soda Creek Road.
Now, the PCT is the road.  Walk toward the interstate (you=92ll hear it),
across the railroad tracks, and over to the interstate onramp.  There is no=
t
much traffic on this exit.  When you get back on the trail after your trip
to Dunsmuir, the PCT continues under the interstate at this exit.

Dunsmuir is a nice compact town.  Be sure to have your hitch drop you near
the PO, which is close to the downtown area.  There is a bed & breakfast an=
d
a Travel Lodge a few blocks from the PO.  Laundry, restaurants, grocery,
internet at the library, all within a few blocks.  I don=92t know about
alcohol/HEET.  Good place for a day off, unless you can push on to Etna.
After walking through Section O, with the overgrown trail and poison oak, I
was ready for a zero day in air-conditioned comfort in Dunsmuir.

1600.2 - Etna CA - Not much traffic on the road at Etna Summit, but you
definitely want to go into Etna.  Very cool town.  PO, laundry, great
restaurants, good grocery store, internet at the library.  I don=92t know
about alcohol/HEET.  Very cool hostel at Bradleys=92 Alderbrook Manor (a be=
d &
breakfast).  They have a =93hiker hut=94 with bunk beds and a shower.  For
something like $13.  $2 ride back to the trail.  And they accept hiker
packages with no fee.  Etna is a really cool town.  Perfect place for a zer=
o
day.  This place is not in the books, and I don=92t know why.  It=92s the
best-kept secret of the PCT.

Bradleys=92 Alderbrook Manor
Bed & Breakfast Inn
836 Main Street
Etna, CA  96027
www.sisqtel.net/~joybrad
530-467-3917
1-888-780-0383

1657.0 - Seiad Valley CA - PO, diner, small store with snacks, drinks, and
cheese.  PCT Register.  Not sure about alcohol/HEET.  Hard to resupply here=
.
  The RV park is very hiker friendly.  They have a hiker room, and let
hikers camp on the lawn.  I don=92t know what the cost is, but I remember
thinking it was cheap.  Coin-operated showers and laundry at the RV park.  =
I
heard the RV park was for sale, so maybe this information will change.  Man=
y
hikers took zero days here.

1721.5 - Ashland OR via Hwy 99 - We got a little confused here and ended up
walking a jeep road the last .3 mile down to Hwy 99.  Hwy 99 is a paved
highway right above Interstate 5.  When you get to Hwy 99, you hitch left
(north) to Callahan=92s and farther north to Ashland.  When you leave Ashla=
nd,
the PCT going to Canada from here walks the highway to the right (south) fo=
r
.5 mile before the trail tread continues again on the left side of the road=
.

You=92ll see Callahan=92s about a mile before you get to the highway.  I he=
ard
there is lodging and a restaurant at Callahan=92s and the restaurant is ope=
n
all day, not just for dinner as stated in The Book Of Lies.  We didn=92t go=
 to
Callahan=92s, cause we caught an early hitch all the way into Ashland.

Don=92t try to hitch to Ashland from the spot where the trail hits Hwy 99. =
 I
suggest walking the .9 mile down Hwy 99 to Callahan=92s (with your thumb ou=
t!)
then trying to hitch the interstate onramp from there.  More traffic near
Callahan=92s.  At this point, Hwy 99 and I-5 are the same road.

Stay at the hostel in Ashland!!  They have a hiker rate which is around $15=
,
I think.  Be sure to ask for the PCT hiker rate.  There is a sign that says
hostel guests have to stay out of the hostel between 10am and 5pm, but this
does not apply to PCT hikers.  If you arrive between these hours, just knoc=
k
on the door.  PCT Register at the hostel.  There are also some motels and a
public bus system.

Ashland is a great place for a zero day!!  Many restaurants, outfitter,
Safeway, food co-op, PO, laundromat in town and laundry at the hostel,
internet at the library, Shakespeare Festival, movie theater.  Denatured
alcohol at the Ace Hardware store down by the food co-op.  HEET at Safeway
(it=92s hidden at the front of the store).  Carry enough alcohol/HEET to ge=
t
to Cascade Locks.

Most hikers resupply for Oregon from here, sending drops to Mazama (Crater
Lake), Shelter Cove, and Olallie.

1825.3 - Mazama Campground at Crater Lake - The Book Of Lies is confusing a=
t
this point.  On page 107 you take the =93alternate route/resupply access=94=
 to
get to Mazama.  It talks about leaving the highway after 1/3 mile to take a
side trail along an old roadbed.  Nobody could find this.  We just walked
the road to Mazama.  Or you could hitch.  It=92s probably 1-1.5 miles.

The Town Guide information for this stop is incorrect.  The Lodge does not
accept any packages.  Packages must be sent to the Mazama Village, UPS only=
.
  I=92m pretty sure this is the address, but watch PCT-L to be sure:

Crater Lake Camp Store
Mazama Village
Crater Lake, OR  97604

You cannot mail packages out from Mazama Campground.  Letters only.
There is also a PO, but it is not along the trail.  It=92s like 3 or 4 road
miles from Mazama Village.

You could resupply from the Mazama store if you=92re not picky.  It=92s
expensive.  Like $2 for a box of mac-n-cheese.  Snacks, drinks, fruit,
cheese, microwave food, canned soup/stew.  I didn=92t see any alcohol/HEET.
There is no restaurant at Mazama.  There are coin-operated showers and
laundry, but they do not sell laundry soap.  Be sure to include a little
laundry soap in your maildrop.  If you put it in a plastic bag, then wrap
the bag in foil, the soap smell/odor shouldn=92t get into your food.  In 20=
02,
the third shower in the women=92s room was free.  I turned the water on, an=
d
it didn=92t need any quarters.  Camping at Mazama for something like $15/si=
te.
  You could put 20+ people in a site.  There are cabins at Mazama Village
and a Lodge at the Rim Village, but they=92re expensive and usually filled =
up.

There is an incredibly average snack bar at the Rim Village (4.5 trail mile=
s
or 7 road miles from Mazama).  There is also a restaurant at the Rim
Village, but I didn=92t go there.

1907.1 - Shelter Cove - Expensive place.  Very small store.  Mac-n-cheese
for $2.25.  Not much else there.  Snacks and drinks, peanut butter.  One
piece of string cheese for $1.  Coin-operated shower, $1.50 for only THREE
MINUTES!!!  Laundry=97one washer and one dryer.  There is EXPENSIVE lodging
here.  They hold packages with no fee.  Address is in the Town Guide.
Packages are only held for two weeks.  No outgoing mail at all.  I didn=92t
see any alcohol/HEET.

2047.8 - Olallie Lake Resort - Another expensive place.  They take packages=
,
but only get mail once per week.  BE SURE your box is there at least two
weeks before you.  Fee to pick up boxes, I think $4 each.  Microwave food,
snacks, cheese, drinks.  You could resupply if you=92re not picky at all.  =
I
didn=92t see any alcohol/HEET.  PCT Register.

2102.0 - Timberline Lodge - The Book Of Lies mentions something about hugel=
y
expensive holding fees for boxes.  I know hikers who picked up their boxes
with no fees.  I didn=92t do a drop here, and I didn=92t go into the store.
Incredibly average snack bar food.  I heard there was also a nice
restaurant, but I didn=92t go anyplace except the snack bar.

2134.7 - Eagle Creek Trail Alternate Route - DO THIS ALTERNATE ROUTE!!!

2150.2 - Cascade Locks OR - Great place for a zero day.  Free showers and
camping at the RV Park.  I stayed at the Best Western, so I=92m not sure wh=
at
the RV Park is like.  PO, good grocery store, a couple of restaurants,
internet at the library.  PCT Register at the PO.  Laundry at the Best
Western.  Town Guide states there is laundry at the Econo Inn, but I didn=
=92t
check on that.  HEET at one of the gas stations.  Carry enough HEET for the
rest of the trail.

Most hikers resupply for Washington from here, sending drops to White Pass,
Snoqualmie, Skykomish, and Stehekin.  However, the grocery store in Cascade
Locks doesn=92t have a huge selection, so if you want variety for your
Washington drops, you might try to get a ride to a bigger town to do your
shopping.

2298.0 - White Pass WA - Not much here.  A motel, and a store.  That=92s it=
.
Packages are sent to the Kracker Barrel Store.  Outgoing mail is letters
only, no boxes.  No fee to pick up boxes.  The motel rooms have microwaves,
stoves, and ovens, so you could buy food at the store to cook.  But, there=
=92s
really not much there, mostly canned soups/stews and hot pocket type
microwave stuff.  The store has fried food they make, like chicken strips
and fries and stuff.  You cannot resupply from the store.  PCT Register at
the store.  I=92m not sure about alcohol/HEET.

2396.5 - Snoqualmie Pass WA - If you=92re not pure, when you see the town, =
and
you=92re walking through the ski runs, take the jeep road down to town inst=
ead
of walking all the way to the interstate.

The PO is at the Time Wise Grocery.  BE SURE to NOT have delivery
confirmation on any of your boxes.  If you do, then you have to pick the bo=
x
up during regular PO hours, which are only a couple hours each day.  Withou=
t
delivery confirmation, you can pick your box up anytime the store is open.
PCT Register at the Time Wise Grocery.

You could resupply out of the two small stores if you=92re not picky.  Not
sure about alcohol/HEET, but I would guess one of the two stores has HEET.
Lodging at the Best Western Summit Inn.  Be sure to ask for the PCT hiker
rate, it=92s like half the regular rate.  Plan on staying at the Best Weste=
rn.
  Believe me, you=92ll be ready to sleep indoors when you get here.  Laundr=
y
at the Best Western.  Good food at the restaurant.

2471.6 - Skykomish WA - In 2002, there were trail angels who let hikers sta=
y
at their house, do laundry, and shower.  Really cool people.  If they=92re
still angeling in 2003, you=92ll hear about them from southbounders.  The o=
nly
motel is the Sky River Inn, which is expensive.  $70, I think for a single,
but save your money, cause if you can=92t stay with Bridgette, you may want=
 to
sleep indoors anyway.  The dude at the Sky River Inn will do laundry for
guests for $2, but you have to ask.  Surprisingly good food at the Sky
Chalet restaurant.  PO next to the Sky River Inn.  Internet at the library.
Very compact town.  No grocery store.  A small convenience store.  You coul=
d
not resupply here.  They do have cheese and microwave food.  Not sure about
alcohol/HEET.

There is a guy named Bob Norton (360)-677-2347 who helps hikers.  He can
pick your box up at the PO if you call him.  I also heard you can camp on
his lawn.  Not sure if he offers laundry and showers.  Bob gives rides back
to the trail at Stevens Pass.

PCT Register either at the PO, or Bob Norton will have it.

2569.4 - Stehekin WA - The bus to town leaves the PCT at 9am, 12pm, 3pm, an=
d
6pm.  I think it=92s $6 one way.  Expensive lodging at the North Cascades
Stehekin Lodge, but the rooms are HUGE.  We put 8 hikers in a room one nigh=
t
and 6 hikers in the next night.  I think we paid $115 the first night and
$125 the second.  They charge per room, not per person.  I think there is
free camping at the campground.  Laundry, PO, satellite phone that works
remarkably well.  PCT Register at the PO.

EXCELLENT food at the Stehekin Valley Ranch.  The bus will take you there
for dinner.  $2 roundtrip.  The food at the Lodge is HORRIBLE, and the
portions are small, but you=92ll eat it anyway.

Very limited supplies at the store.  You could not resupply here.  Snacks,
drinks, cheese.  The outfitter listed in the Town Guide isn=92t really an
outfitter.  It=92s a little store geared to tourists.  They did have a few
lipton=92s and backpacking dinners.  No alcohol/HEET.

The Bakery is fabulous!!  The bus stops at the bakery on the way into and
out of town, so be sure to hike in with some cash.

2658.7 - Manning Park Lodge - Very nice place to stay.  The prices listed i=
n
the Town Guide are Canadian dollars.  When we were there, a $110 motel room
was something like $70 american.  There=92s a bar that serves food and a
restaurant.







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