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[pct-l] Ice Axe Questions



You're going to find a lot of different opinions on ice ax length. I can only 
give you mine which doesn't mean others are wrong, it's just what I like and 
what I like is long. Of course, short ones weigh less so if that's your main 
concern, get a short one. I spend the majority of my time on moderate snow 
slopes while climbing where self arrest is not really that important an 
issue. While traversing or descending these slopes I like to hold my ice ax 
on the down hill side because it makes a great balance stick. I can't use it 
on the downhill side if it is too short. On slopes approximating 30 degrees 
where self arrest may be an issue, I of course hold it on the uphill side. I 
don't find a little extra length to be much of a problem. When facing 
directly towards a steep hill while either ascending or descending, I like to 
be able to plunge the ax into the snow as far as possible to get a good hand 
anchor. Long axes can be shoved into soft snow farther than short ones for 
better anchors. To judge the length, I like to have my elbow bent while 
holding the ax, with the point of the ice ax touching flat ground. I'll leave 
it to the gear heads to tell you the proper pick style. One's as good as 
another as far as I'm concerned. I know nothing of ice ax baskets but they do 
sound handy.
      Another controversy is the ice ax wrist loop. Some people say to wear 
it on steep snow slopes so that you won't lose it if you slip and need to 
self arrest, but I disagree. I was in an avalanche once where I dropped some 
2500 feet. I punctured my abdomen once with the ax and then let it go or had 
it ripped from my hands. If I had had the wrist loop on, I would have 
probably been stabbed to death with it. (The ax, not the loop)