[pct-l] Washington Section Hike Plans

[Eric Martinot]

Nancy,

I'm also nervous about stream crossings, and generally won't use logs
that don't seem to bother most others, so I'm in the water more often. 
I hiked all of WA during two Augusts and I only remember two stream
crossings as being an issue for me, but annual destruction and
building/rebuilding of bridges means specific historical info like mine
isn't so useful.

(1) One stream around the western flanks of Mt. Adams (somewhere in
Halfmile 2249-2253), where the streams drain the snowfields and glaciers
of Mt. Adams and are silty so you can't see the bottom.  One crossing
seemed too deep in the late afternoon so I camped, and then early the
next morning it was passable, much less flow, although still fast
thigh-high water (I'm 5'8") where you can't see the bottom.  Helpful was
the moral support of two hikers coming from the other direction who
camped on the opposite stream bank that evening (we waved across the
loud stream at each other over dinner), and who crossed in the opposite
direction from me the next morning, at the exact same time as me.  (Was
this Muddy Fork? The WP Guidebook (2004) says it is bridged, maybe the
bridge was out that year and now it is fixed.)   

(2) Kennedy Creek near Glacier Peak (Halfmile 2523). When I hiked it ten
years ago there was no bridge, and a nearby log looked very dicey, so I
took a several-miles detour down to the hot springs and then back up to
the PCT (trails 643A and 643).  Surely there is a bridge there now,
others will have better info, but this is an example of the kinds of
things to check after the snow melts--the WP Guidebook (2004) says this
about Kennedy Creek:  "a 10-yard-wide torrent that sometimes has to be
forded, since bridges built across it have a tendency to be wiped out by
avalanches. Without a bridge, the ford can be treacherous." The same
goes for deep silty 5-yd-wide Milk Creek (Halfmile 2535), draining
Glacier Peak, of which the WP Guidebook says:  "A log crossing existed
in 1973 but was replaced with a $40,000 “permanent” bridge in 1974.
This, however, was wiped out by an early-summer avalanche in 1975.
Another bridge was built, but there’s no guarantee that a bridge will be
there when you reach the creek."  I think the bridge has been replaced a
few times, and the trail even re-routed to descend along the creek and
climb back up (you can still see the old route on the HalfMile map), but
presume a bridge is there now.

I would guess most thru-hikers don't give creek crossings in WA a second
thought, as they've been through much worse by the time they get to WA,
but for those of us hiking a few sections at a time and concerned about
such things, it isn't something to brush off.  Worst case, in busy
August, you have a good chance of waiting for a passing hiker and using
them for at least moral, if not physical support (although certainly not
to be counted on).

As for direction, you will find extensive writings, discussions, and
arguments about PCT N-to-S vs. S-to-N in general.  My personal
preference is always S-to-N to keep the sun behind me and reduce glare,
but my three cents about WA in particular is that:  (1) weather-wise, if
you are starting later than mid-August, and taking 5 weeks for WA, so
are in danger of running into an early-season snowstorm in mid-to-late
September, then N-to-S avoids the chance of being in the more dangerous
Northern Cascades when that happens.  But if you are starting early
August then weather shouldn't matter as much for direction, although it
will likely be colder and wetter farther north by September.  (2) Hiking
S-to-N means you can take a bus to Cascade Locks, and can finish in
Manning Park, only an extra 9 miles beyond the border (from where you
used to be able to take a bus to Vancouver, although I understand the
bus has recently been suspended so its not as convenient anymore,
someone can confirm), whereas hiking N-to-S means first hiking 30 miles
north on the PCT from Harts Pass to the border (and somehow getting to
Harts Pass), so you can turn around and start south, since you can't
legally enter the US (from Manning) on the PCT.  Those redundant 30
miles are enough to tempt any section hiker just to start south from
Harts Pass, but you miss a beautiful section of PCT north of Harts Pass,
and would have to go back there later if your plans are to ultimately
hike the whole PCT.  (3) Bridge of the Gods, Columbia River, and Cascade
Locks is a very nice place to end a section hike, lots of services, easy
bus to Portland, and also if you are pressed for time in finishing the
end of the hike, you can save 21 miles at the end by taking the shorter
alternate route Wind River Rd via Stevenson and Carson (per WP
Guidebook). 

As for snow still on the ground in August, which I also worried about,
the only trouble I remember was a snow-bound 50-yard section at the very
top of Suiattle Pass (Halfmile 2560).  The snow blocking the trail was
several feet deep and went above the trail as well.  At first, it
appeared that the only way to get past was to traverse the steep snow
field, which was a bit icy and had a long run-off down into rocks.  Not
having traction devices or an ice-axe, I made a few tentative steps but
then decided it was too risky.  Thinking I was blocked and starting to
despair, I finally realized I could scramble up the steep dirt slope
above the trail and go up and over the snowfield on dirt and rocks. 
Other passes were met with apprehension but none were the same.  I also
worried about the snow field over Packwood Glacier south of Goat Rocks,
but it proved to be almost nothing, and the trail has recently been
rebuilt and re-routed there anyway.  The point is, depending on what the
snowfall of the previous winter was, if you hike earlier than August,
especially if you hike N-to-S, you probably need to be mentally prepared
for some snow-bound sections at the tops of passes which would require
your decision as to whether a traverse across a steep snow slope is
within your comfort zone, and what detours might be possible.

Every year conditions are different, YMMV, HYOH, etc!

Eric