[pct-l] Transferring Aquamira to different bottles

[Kristin Hamann]

FYI, according to the CDC chlorine dioxide (i.e. Aquamira) has only low to
moderate effectiveness at killing Cryptosporidium.  I know many people use
bleach, but it is not very effective at killing Giardia and is ineffective
against Cryptosporidium (same as Iodine).

k

http://www.cdc.gov/healthywater/drinking/travel/backcountry_water_treatment.html


On Wed, Apr 10, 2013 at 6:52 AM, Jim Marco <jdm27 at cornell.edu> wrote:

> Well, actually, there is a slight chance. Actually that's not quite
> correct. Like anything else, there is a chance that some molecules will
> stick inside and react. I usually rinse with water (ionic compounds wash
> well with water), then alcohol (fats, oils or other organic compounds wash
> fairly well with alcohol) then rinse with water again. That should leave
> the little bottles clean enough for use. Disinfection isn't really
> necessary. Some people like to carry chlorine in the form of hypochlorous
> acid or common household bleach. This works though is less safe than AM
> drops or tablets and works overnight. It takes about 3-4 hours to clean
> water. But, so does AM if you are looking to eliminate Crypto spores... Not
> really done at all by the small amounts of bleach used to clean water.
>
> I do a lot of canoeing, too. So, I worry about such things. Below a sewage
> treatment plant, you could run into a large plume of Crypto. Most navigable
> streams have the potential of animal feces in the water and placing Crypto
> in it. High mountain springs have next to no chance. Usually this is the
> condition found on the PCT. But not ALL waters, of course. Guardia could be
> found most anywhere.
>
> Note that the various plastics will ALL react with AquaMira. This is the
> biggest reason there is a shelf life on the bottles. Warm temps accelerate
> the process. This can take a few months, to a year or three, to inactivate,
> though. Plenty safe enough for the PCT and the usage life of a couple small
> bottles (3 weeks to a month, max.) I never dump extra at the end of a trip,
> simply add more, as needed. But, I DO dump it after the three month winter
> layoff from camping.
>
> Again, I highly encourage you to look it up. Stabilized Chlorine Dioxide
> is a fair search term. Trust only government or educational institution
> papers, the rest may or may not be what you want. The military has a lot of
> this stuff and is, perhaps, the largest single source of good info. But,
> they also gave us Agent Orange (also widely used by the railroad system,
> BTW) and DDT as "safe" chemicals. Generally they are short sighted.
>
> If it turns piss yellow, treat your water. Good'n gross and easy to
> remember. IF IT DOES NOT TURN YELLOW, DUMP IT. It will not treat the water.
> As I remember there was a story of a group hike that one person added one
> part to the water in one bottle and the other part to his second bottle.
> This doesn't protect you at all, of course...
>         My thoughts only . . .
>                 Jdm
> BTW: I am always researching some aspect of camping. If anybody as
> references to tannic acid in water as it relates to AM I would be
> interested to hear.
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: pct-l-bounces at backcountry.net [mailto:pct-l-bounces at backcountry.net]
> On Behalf Of Ben Ulsh
> Sent: Wednesday, April 10, 2013 1:49 AM
> To: pct-l at backcountry.net
> Subject: [pct-l] Transferring Aquamira to different bottles
>
> Here's a question for anyone who's had experience with Aquamira.  I am
> transferring it to little dropper bottles that used to be full of breath
> freshening drops.  I have washed the bottles thoroughly and disinfected
> them with a bleach solution.  Is there any chance that any residual
> chemicals (if there are any) would effect the potency of either part A or B
> or the mix.  Might be a little over cautious but thought it couldn't hurt
> to ask.  Thank you all in advance!
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