[pct-l] ice axe length

Ken Murray kmurray at pol.net
Wed Feb 2 00:25:11 CST 2011


Chuck, I had a few other thoughts:

Chuck said:
"Thanks for pointing out that “Freedom”, 8th Edition, changed The
Mountaineers recommendation of axe shaft length.  Since that is so, I’m very
pleased because it well-illustrates a point I’ve been trying to make:  If a
70cm shaft is appropriate for everyone – equally for a 5’0” quarter-pounder
as well as 6’9” Strider – what they are also back-handedly saying is that
length doesn’t really matter at all."

Actually Chuck, that is an illogical inference.  A much more logical inference 
would be that any other length would be WRONG.  That is actually not true, either,
though.

It means that 70cm gives an *optimal* amount of length for penetrating most types 
of snow for self-belay, and is long enough to allow the shaft to cross the body
and allow a good double grip for a self-arrest.  The advance in technical understanding 
is that 

it is not the height of the user which is the critical issue, but the holding 
power of the shaft, which is optimal at 70 cm.  

A shorter person  carrying a significantly
shorter axe does not have the same "stopping power" in a belay fall, as a longer axe.  
A taller person carrying a longer axe, gains nothing significant.

You also say:
"Contrary to your inference, I do not make specific gear recommendations for
others; I mostly just describe what I do, how, and why.  The closest I come
is to recommend that others gather information and make their own
choice.  Sometimes
– often, actually – my methods don’t comply with establishment views when
those views don’t seem logical to me and/or when they run counter to my
experience."

That is a fair point of view.  So, inasmuch as you describe that you prefer a short handled ice
axe, and state you have no experience doing an arrest with one....but refute other experience
axe users who state that it is problematic doing an arrest with a short handle, is it not reasonable
to ask you (as you apparently would have asked Jardine), exactly what the technique is that you would 
recommend (I believe that is the "how" part of the above) with said axe, so 
"that others can gather information and make their own choice" 

In addition:
"I don’t spend a lot of time talking about what you refer to as self-belay
because it’s a technological no-brainer."

Actually, you said it didn't exist, referring to a rope belay, which is not related.

Also:
"I expect that while two devoted ice axe users stand nose-to-nose arguing
about technical details and techniques, 6 other hikers will pass by with
their shorts, tee-shirts, sneakers, and trekking poles, and they will be
safely over the pass before the argument is over."

Remember Gary Embrey, first death on PCT 2006
http://www.backcountry.net/arch/pct/0602/msg00248.html

Remember Ali Aminian
http://www.simpsoncity.com/hiking/news/LAtimes011504.html
 




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