[pct-l] crampons?

Bob Bankhead wandering_bob at comcast.net
Mon Nov 26 15:57:52 CST 2007


Will you need crampons? It all depends on the snow conditions and each year in the Sierras is different.  More hikers carry an ice axe than carry crampons. Yes, there are strap-on crampons to fit just about any shoe. One example is the Stubai Ultralight http://www.promountainsports.com/crampons.shtml

Now I'm going to rant a bit here.............

Ice axe and crampons are safety devices that allow you to traverse where techniques like kicking steps and edging aren't enough, and both require a lot of practice to learn to use properly. Trekking poles will help with balance, but when you do fall, the rapid and correct use of your ice axe is the only thing that will save you. You won't have time to think about it; you just react.  Either learn to use both with skill and confidence or leave them at home. Otherwise, they can get you into more trouble than you can handle.

CAVEAT - you can't learn to use either by just reading a book; you have to get out on real, low angle snow (with a safe runout) and practice, practice, practice with someone who knows what it takes.If you're not carrying the ice axe for the reason you specified, then in my opinion, you certainly have no business on crampons. Walking on them is tricky enough without snagging a pant leg or crampon strap or otherwise tripping yourself. High angle slopes with dangerous runouts are no place to begin learning how to do that.

I always found it easier to learn to use the axe (it's not just for self arrest; that's sort of the last resort when everything turns to absolute crap) than the crampons, but I have used both. When faced with a questionable traverse, you're much more likely to need the axe than the crampons. If it gets dicey enough to warrant crampons then use both together. I personally would not use just crampons alone. I've taken a few falls on glaciers and am only here writing this because I had an ice axe and the skill to use it at the time.

Most important is to use your common sense and listen to your gut. If the terrain ahead looks scary to you, it probably is. Think again before venturing out there. Can you find another way around or come back another time? The mountain isn't going anywhere any time soon.  Try to see where you'd end up if you did fall.  Assess the risk. If you decide to try it, then choose the right equipment and go carefully.  

End rant.

Wandering Bob




----- Original Message ----- 
  From: David Stewart 
  To: pct-l at backcountry.net 
  Sent: Monday, November 26, 2007 1:11 PM
  Subject: [pct-l] crampons?


  3) starting on the zero-day kickoff ....will I need crampons in the sierras? I am not going to carry an ice ax, because I have no idea what to do with that, how to self arrest, etc... are crampons needed? it seems extra nuts that i am going to do this trail in new balances...can sneakers handle the high sierra? 

  thank you all again, 

  -moondog
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