[pct-l] Gloves for Ice Axe

[Matt Geis]

Hi Bill,
Ice axe hand protection is pretty subjective.  You'll want to take a lot into account, but in the end, what works for you (comfort, warmth, and ability to let you correctly self-arrest) is what's important.

Keep in mind that self-arrest situations are more likely in the morning (when the snow is iced up) than in the after noon, when the snow has softened.  That being said, you can still slip and get a good head of steam going downhill at just about any time of day. 

Also, the morning ice and even afternoon softer version can tear the hell out of your clothing.  It'll remove the waterproofing right off those pants, tear holes in the seat, etc.  Think what it can do to your hand.  While you don't have your full weight on your hand during an arrest, it is right in there in the middle of it all.

The axe will also conduct cold right up the shaft into your hand (ok, I don't know if 'conduct cold' is scientifically correct, but I do know that the hand holding on to the head of the axe as you hike will cool down faster than your downhill hand -- so maybe that's 'conduct heat out of your hand').  So, your glove should be something that can keep you warm.

What about the glove's heating ability when wet?  Depending on conditions, your glove may get wet.  Also, if it's warm, you may heat up, yet still want some hand protection.

All that bein said, here's my personal opinion.  I've been happy with a pair of North Face goretex 'windstopper' gloves.  On high-altitude climbs or significantly colder weather, I've used a pair of mittens which are basically a thumb and an area for my four fingers, and the whole thing goes partway up my forearm.  As long as I'm able to efficiently (and quickly!) get my thumb around the bottom of the adze and my fingers over the head, I'm happy.

Good luck, and do a little practice.  All your questions will be answered very quickly!

Iron Chef


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